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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Přeskok
Poštolčí kužel
Jumping from the top of the massif to the top of the tower Rock Climbing
4+
Kostelní věž
To the left of the SW edge diagonally left to the platform. Up the wall and shallow gully… Rock Climbing
4-
Poštolčí kužel
Over the overhang along the edge and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Kronika
On the right in the upper face, up the chimney over the overhang (hourglass) into the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Kronika
In the left part of the West face, up the crack to the pre-summit and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
3
Kronika
Up the hand crack in the center of the upper face to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Poštolčí kužel
From the balcony below the North face to the clock, traverse right and up the NW edge to… Rock Climbing
2+
Kronika
To the left of the "Marhanovy sandály" (Marhan's Sandals) route, up the crack to the pre… Rock Climbing
4-
Kronika
To the right of route d), up the crack widening into a chimney and the edge to the pre… Rock Climbing
6
Kronika
To the right of the "Okatá spára" (Eye Crack), up the overhanging wall diagonally right… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Danger
5+
Kronika
To the summit via the West edge. Rock Climbing
6-
Kronika
In the Valley face, up the diagonal crack (2 rings), then up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Kronika
From the Southeast via the notch and chimney to the East edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Kronika
From the upper side, left and right through the gully to the saddle. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Kronika
Via the Old Route to the saddle and traverse left into the East face. Up the wall on… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Okurka
Descend from the massif and jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Mariina věž
Near the southwest edge, traverse left into the gully and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Mariina věž
On the left in the valley-side wall, to a block into the chimney. Diagonally right to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Mariina věž
On the left in the valley-side wall, follow the chimney and crack to the balcony and then… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Mariina věž
On the left in the south face, follow the gully to the platform and the chimney to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Mariina věž
To the left of the Old Route, follow the chimney and the southeast edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Mariina věž
In the middle of the south face, follow the fine cracks, then up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Rošťák (Kulišák)
Jump from the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Rošťák (Kulišák)
On the left in the S wall, diagonally left to the valley edge and along it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Rošťák (Kulišák)
Center of the S wall over the hourglass n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Rohlík
Up the crack from the valley overhang to the edge. Up the edge and route a) to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Rošťák (Kulišák)
In the upland wall, chimneying between the tower and the massif, then up the smooth wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Rohlík
From the upland (S) side in the lower horizontal crack, traverse diagonally right to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Rozporová věž
From the massif (from the stance), descend the wall and over a wide overhang (Jump 2) to… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Rohlík
Up the overhanging wall to the left of the upland edge directly n. v. Rock Climbing

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