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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Labužník
By opposition between the tower and the massif, higher up (climbing out of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Labužník
From the right up the E wall (ring) to the 2nd ring. Directly up the wall, higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Francouzská věž
Through the center of the valley (N) wall (bolt) over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Francouzská věž
In the right part of the valley (N) wall over 2 rings and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Nahodilá věž
From the massif jump down to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Francouzská věž
About 6m left of "Old Route", diagonally left up the wall and along the edge to the pre… Rock Climbing
4-
Francouzská věž
On the right in the S wall via the gully to the boulder of "Old Route", traverse left… Rock Climbing
5+
Francouzská věž
In the left part of the S wall over the overhang, diagonally left and along the cracks… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Francouzská věž
In the S wall to the right of the "Sahara" route, up the wall into the gully. Diagonally… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Jehla v Mostkách
From the center of the S face (ring) into the crack (hourglasses) and up that to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Nahodilá věž
From the valley side, up the chimney between the tower and the massif, traverse right to… Rock Climbing
5+
Nahodilá věž
On the right in the uphill wall along the fissure, higher up the wall on the left over… Rock Climbing
3
Nahodilá věž
On the left in the uphill wall (with a massive structure) to the ring and with a smooth… Rock Climbing
6
Nahodilá věž
On the valley side over the overhang and crack to the 1st balcony. Directly up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Jehla v Mostkách
From the center of the S face directly above the BH (left loop in the crack), back into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Tuplák
In the massif, descend the wall and overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Tuplák
Jump from the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Jehla v Mostkách
Up the left edge of the narrow W face, right and along the right edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Tuplák
On the left in the S face directly to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Tuplák
Jump from the pillar, n. v. (not verified) Rock Climbing
5+
Tuplák
On the right in the S face, through a ring to the edge and up that (hourglasses) to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Tuplák
On the right in the valley wall, up the wall (ring) into the gully, higher up the wall … Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Tuplák
By a chimney with opposition between the tower and the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Tykadlo
Start as for "North Route," traverse to the crack of "Rusty Route" and up that to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Tykadlo
From the saddle, traverse right into the chimney and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Tykadlo
From the saddle, descend to the center of the S face. Through the crack (ring) and… Rock Climbing
2+
Tykadlo
Upland face to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Tykadlo
SE edge to the left of "Old Route" to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Zapomenutý pes
In the right part of the valley wall to the ring and along the hourglasses to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Zapomenutý pes
Along the left valley edge to the top. Rock Climbing

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