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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Baldurova jehla
E edge to the platform of the North Route and (by edging) edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Baldurova jehla
Left in the S wall to a platform on the E edge. Traverse right (ring) and crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Baldurova jehla
From the massif jump to the W edge and up to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Baldurova jehla
On the left in the South face, over an overhang and up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Masiv u Baldurovy jehly
In the middle of the North face, up a crack (bolt) and directly to the pre-summit. (Jump… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Baldurova jehla
On the right in the South face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Masiv u Baldurovy jehly
In the right part of the East face (2x clocks) to a bolt and up to the pre-summit. (Jump… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Baldurova jehla
Up the face under the rappel station directly over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Baldurova jehla
From the left to the western edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Sýrový kámen
From the East, up a corner and a gully. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Sýrový kámen
Up the valley face directly to a balcony (1st belay at a stool). Traverse right 10m (2nd… Rock Climbing
6
Sýrový kámen
In the middle of the North face, over the overhang into a crack and through it into the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Sýrový kámen
To the left of the bivouac, up the overhanging face and a crack to the end, then from the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Sýrový kámen
From the valley, briefly up a corner to a ledge and over an overhang to a bolt.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Sýrový kámen
From the face to a ledge, from its right edge (clocks) up to the right, then friction… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Sýrový kámen
In the right part of the North face, briefly up a corner and traverse right to the clocks… Rock Climbing
3
Sýrový kámen
In the left part of the south face, up the right crack, then freely above. Rock Climbing
3
Sýrový kámen
In the south face, up a crack running to the left. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Sýrový kámen
Up the Northwest pillar and the left gully. Rock Climbing
3
Sýrový kámen
In the West face, up a corner to a ledge and then up the right gully. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Sýrový kámen
To the right of the route "Západní kout" (Western Corner), diagonally right across the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Sýrový kámen
In the left part of the south face, up the left crack, then freely above. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Sýrový kámen
To the right of "Segregace", up a small corner and the face over two clocks to a ledge,… Rock Climbing
2
Sýrový kámen
On the right in the S wall along the foot ledge diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Labužník
From the left up the valley wall (ring) to the recess and up it to the 2nd ring. Directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Sýrový kámen
To the left of the Christmas route through open corner and shallow gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Labužník
From the W edge traverse right to the ring, along the edge and the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Sýrový kámen
Left of the Old Route via a shallow gully and right to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Sýrový kámen
In the middle of the South face, a gully to a sloping balcony and then up the face. Rock Climbing
2
Sýrový kámen
From the start of "Old Route" directly up the recess to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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