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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Poradní skála
On the right along the southwest edge, up a crack to a balcony (ring) and along the edge… Rock Climbing
5
Poradní skála
On the right in the valley wall, up a crack (ring) and a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Poradní skála
From the saddle to the left, up a narrow chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Poradní skála
Start to the left of the "Old Route", traverse left and up the wall to the exit of the … Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Poradní skála
On the right in the south face to a footbridge. Through the gully over a ring and left to… Rock Climbing
3
Rynartická stěna
NE edge to the pre-summit and directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Rynartická stěna
Crack near the NE edge and then via the route "Northeast Edge" to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
9
Lehké opevnění
Overhanging edge in the downhill wall and above the overhang to the right into the corner… Rock Climbing Overhang
7-/7
Rynartická stěna
Through the middle of the downhill wall past 2 ring bolts and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Rynartická stěna
From the solid rock, descend through a hollow to a ledge and jump to the pre-summit.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Rynartická stěna
From the SE, stemming and corner to the balcony. Left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Rynartická stěna
From the solid rock, jump to the balcony of the Old Route and then via that route to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Rynartická stěna
Chimney in the uphill wall to the pre-summit and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Rynartická stěna
Gully on the left in the uphill wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Rynartická stěna
In the right part of the NW wall, crack to the hourglass, traverse right and directly to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Virtuální realita
In the left part of the downhill S wall, chimney climb past a ring (added) easily. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Rynartická stěna
From the start of the "Gully" route, traverse left along a fault to the balcony and then… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Virtuální realita
In the middle of the downhill S wall, chimney climb past a bolt diagonally right to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Virtuální realita
SW wall past the 1st and 2nd ring bolts. Slightly from the right into the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Virtuální realita
In the right part of the NW wall, via a corner to a ring bolt, over an overhang and a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Virtuální realita
In the right part of the downhill S wall, chimney climb past a ring to a wide hollow… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Virtuální realita
Left crack in the SW wall to the overgrown hollow and right corner with the crack easily. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Virtuální realita
Through a crack in the middle of the SW wall easily. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Greendeal
Through the middle of the wall, directly past 2 bolts to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Greendeal
To the right of the route "Source of Infection", up the wall directly to the bolt and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Greendeal
To the left of the route "Source of Infection", directly up the wall past the 1st and 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
10-/10
Greendeal
In the left part of the wall, past 2 bolts to the rappel station. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Mňouk
From the adjacent pinnacle, a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Mňouk
Along the rounded valley's southwest edge, via holes to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Deštivá (Lesní) deska
Via the rounded east edge ('clock') to the "Old Route" balcony (crossing it), higher up… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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