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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Věž Bílého potoka
From the northwest to the footbridge and right to the chimney in the west face. Right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Věž Bílého potoka
From the uphill side, up the chimney between the tower and the block on the S edge onto… Rock Climbing
4-
Věž Bílého potoka
From the NW to the ledge and traverse to the right. Up the chimney with an overhanging… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Věž Bílého potoka
Like the Christmas Route to the large balcony. Left of the chimney, up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Věž Bílého potoka
Along the edge below the abseil point, past 2K, higher up to the right through a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Věž Bílého potoka
By the Nová Doba route to the ring. From there, up the wall to the left to the 2nd ring… Rock Climbing
5
Věž Bílého potoka
Like the Pomlázka route to the gully and traverse left to the corner. Climb it and the… Rock Climbing
3
Věž Bílého potoka
On the east side, up the wall from the right or left to the large balcony and then up a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Věž Bílého potoka
Like the Christmas Route to the large balcony. Right of the chimney, up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Věž Bílého potoka
From the base of the wall, all the way to the right in the valley wall, up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Výspa Bílého potoka
In the valley wall, a corner crack and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Náhodná věž
Freely to the terrace. In the center of the south face, a shallow crack to the balcony… Rock Climbing
?
Výspa Bílého potoka
In the center of the massif, descend, jump into the chimney, then climb it and the edge… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Náhodná věž
To the right of the Southern Route, a recess to a ledge and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Náhodná věž
By the old route to the north face and right through the gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Náhodná věž
From the pre-summit, descend via a west-facing chimney to the balcony and then through… Rock Climbing
6-
Náhodná věž
From the terrace, directly along the southeast edge or via a fine crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Náhodná věž
By the old route to the north face and left in the wall via a chimney, higher up to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Náhodná věž
By the old route to the north face and left through a gully-like chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Náhodná věž
By the old route to the center of the north face and through a gully and chimney to the… Rock Climbing
2
Náhodná věž
Freely to the terrace. From the east, a narrow chimney to the pre-summit. Overhang and… Rock Climbing
2+
Tři stoly
On the right in the plateau wall, up a chimney between the summit and the sub-peak, then… Rock Climbing
2+
Tři stoly
Like the Old Route to the balcony and diagonally right through a recess to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Tři stoly
To the left of the Náhorní komín route, up the wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Náhodná věž
Freely to the terrace. Then traverse right into the north face and up the wall diagonally… Rock Climbing
2+
Tři stoly
Up the plateau wall to the sub-peak and cross over to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Poradní skála
In the center of the plateau wall, up a wide corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Tři stoly
Through the center of the south face diagonally left to a balcony, then higher diagonally… Rock Climbing
2+
Poradní skála
About 3m to the right of the Náhorní spára route, up a overgrown gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Tři stoly
On the left in the south face, up a gully and on the right through a loamy notch to the… Rock Climbing

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