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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Tlustá paní
Wall on the right in the East wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Tlustá paní
Left in the South wall directly to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Velký muž
Up the center of the upper face (under the rappel). Rock Climbing
5
Velký muž
Up the southwest face under the overhang, (build up) over the overhang, and right up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Zadní kužel
From the upper face, using the opposition between the tower and the massif, then right… Rock Climbing
5+
Zadní kužel
Up the center of the valley wall over the overhang and right into the corner. Up the… Rock Climbing
2+
Zadní kužel
By a jump. Rock Climbing
4+
Zadní kužel
Up the upper face, initially using the opposition, higher up directly to the rappel… Rock Climbing
5
Zadní kužel
Up the right upper edge. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Křinická branka
From the block in the massif, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Křinická branka
Up the wall through the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Křinická branka
Up the left upper edge from a standing position to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Malý zbrojnoš
On the left in the upper wall, up the smooth wall over the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Malý zbrojnoš
Along the right upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Křinická branka
Using the opposition between the right upper edge and the massif. Then up the edge (ring). Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Brtnický kámen
Up the edge under the rappel to the 2nd ring. From there, right up the groove to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Brtnický kámen
Up the southeast edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Brtnický kámen
To the left of the North Chimney route, up the narrow, oblique chimney and the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Brtnický kámen
On the left in the south face, a corner to the platform and right to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Brtnický kámen
Rock Climbing
4-
Brtnický kámen
To the right of the north chimney, up the wall under the overhang, crack, and chimney to… Rock Climbing
2+
Brtnický kámen
Up the chimney in the north face. Rock Climbing
5
Brtnický kámen
To the left of "Břichatá cesta", up the wall through holes directly to the summit (rappel… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Brtnický kámen
From the southeast edge, take the ledge diagonally to the left and the gully to the right… Rock Climbing
4+
Kráva
From the edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Brtnický kámen
A shallow crack through the center of the south face over the overhang. To the left and… Rock Climbing
2+
Kráva
In the left part of the downhill wall, diagonally right up the overgrown gully to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Kráva
Up the wall and fissure below the abseil point to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Obří hlava
From the massif's balcony, drop to the catwalk. Like the „Doznívání" route to the ring.… Rock Climbing
4+
Obří hlava
Via the Old Route to the catwalk and traverse (ring) to the right until the edge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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