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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Tlustá teta
On the right in the uphill (East) wall, take the crack in the massif, overhang and… Rock Climbing
6-
Tlustá teta
At the obtuse uphill (SE) edge, take the hand crack and the wall to the borehole of the… Rock Climbing
3
Tlustý strýc (Pachole)
From the uphill side of Tlustá teta (Fat Aunt), take the smooth wall to the block and as… Rock Climbing
2
Tlustý strýc (Pachole)
From the SE chimney between the sub-peak and the tower to the balcony, then up the wall… Rock Climbing
2+
Tlustý strýc (Pachole)
About 2m to the right of the Old Route, take the chimney between the tower and the block,… Rock Climbing
3
Tlustá teta
From the North in the massif, descend to the balcony, build from the overhang onto the… Rock Climbing
4-
Tlustá teta
At the western end of the gully, chimney and wall to the left onto the platform. Then… Rock Climbing
6-
Tlustá teta
On the left in the NW wall, take the indistinct corner and the wall to the right to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce Malého krkavčího dolu
On the right in the valley wall, directly over the overhang (or traverse from the right -… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Strážce Malého krkavčího dolu
In the middle of the valley wall to a ledge, overhanging to the right onto a step to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Brtnická stěna
From the South, descend from the massif via a gully to a chimney onto a ledge, traverse… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Brtnická stěna
From the Southeast, descend from the massif and jump to the pre-summit, then climb the… Rock Climbing
4+
Brtnická stěna
On the right in the valley-side (Southwest) wall, climb an overhanging crack and chimney… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Brtnická stěna
From the summit of Brtnická věž (Brtníky Tower), descend, jump, and climb the wall to the… Rock Climbing
3
Brtnická stěna
From the massif, descend from a stance and across the pre-summit to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Brtnická stěna
On the left in the valley-side (Southwest) wall, climb an overhanging crack and chimney… Rock Climbing
2+
Brtnická stěna
From the East in the massif, descend through a ravine into the valley via a chimney. On… Rock Climbing
6-
Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu)
Crack in the west wall diagonally left behind the edge to the ring. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu)
In the valley wall, crack over the overhang, double crack and left to the edge. Up it… Rock Climbing
6
Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu)
On the right in the valley wall directly over the ring to the ring of the "Černá jízda" … Rock Climbing
4+
Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu)
From the east, crack between the tower and the massif over the overhang, corner crack,… Rock Climbing
5
Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu)
Chimney between the tower and the Brtnice wall to the ring. By stemming and up the wall… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu)
Through the center of the valley wall over 2 bolts and a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Martinova věž
Through the center of the east wall to the balcony and via the valley route to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu)
From the massif descend to the platform and jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu)
In the northern wall, crack and left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu)
From the Brtnice wall descend and overhang from a stand into the wall. Up it to the… Rock Climbing
5
Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu)
On the north side, chimney between the tower and the massif, step over, through the gully… Rock Climbing
4+
Brtnická věž (Strážce Křepelčího dolu)
From the massif descend, overhang and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Martinova věž
Up the right northern edge to the balcony and traverse right into the gully in the valley… Rock Climbing

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