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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Velký Plačtivý kámen
By the Old Route to the rock window and to the left of it, a wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Velký Plačtivý kámen
By chimney from W or E to the balcony and by the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Malý Plačtivý kámen
m to the left of the Rumburk crack, wall and crack gully to the ledge. Wall over the ring… Rock Climbing
4-
Malý Plačtivý kámen
From E, transition to the right behind the edge and crack over the overhang to the ledge.… Rock Climbing
4+
Malý Plačtivý kámen
To the left of the Valley variant, a articulated crack and chimney to the balcony.… Rock Climbing
5+
Malý Plačtivý kámen
Left Valley edge to the balcony and Northeast edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Malý Plačtivý kámen
Like Valley Var. to the ring, wall straight through the hole to the 2nd ring and crack to… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Malý Plačtivý kámen
Like Valley Var. to the ring, wall diagonally right to the bolt and gully (2nd bolt),… Rock Climbing
6
Malý Plačtivý kámen
To the left of the Valley Route, a crack over the overhang and like the Valley Route with… Rock Climbing
6
Malý Plačtivý kámen
Overgrown NW wall to the ledge of the Western Chimney route, crack through the hole (ring… Rock Climbing
6
Malý Plačtivý kámen
By the route 'Let's be nice to each other!' to the balcony. Chimneying, right to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Malý Plačtivý kámen
In the W wall, traverse left behind the edge and diagonally left to the ledge. Crack and… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Malý Plačtivý kámen
Like 'Dancer' to the pine (belay). Traverse left (bolt) to the ring, right over the… Rock Climbing
4+
Malý Plačtivý kámen
Like the Valley Route to the corner and left to the ring (additionally placed). First… Rock Climbing
6-
Malý Plačtivý kámen
By the Valley Route and right to the triple large hourglasses. Smooth slab upwards and… Rock Climbing
4+
Malý Plačtivý kámen
In the N wall, the right crack over the overhang, corner and chimney to the pillar.… Rock Climbing
5
Malý Plačtivý kámen
On the right in the W wall, climb the recess over the overhang, crack (additional bolt)… Rock Climbing
5
Velbloudí věž
East wall, then chimney to the saddle and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Malý Plačtivý kámen
Completely on the left in the East wall, take the crack to the balcony and then take the… Rock Climbing
2+
Malý Plačtivý kámen
On the right in the uphill wall, over the balcony to the summit. To the balcony, it is… Rock Climbing
4+
Malý Plačtivý kámen
On the left in the upland wall to the balcony, on the right wall and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Velbloudí věž
From the start of the Old Route, to the right over the overhang into the gully. Take that… Rock Climbing
4+
Malý Plačtivý kámen
To the right of the start of the Western Route, climb the chimney to the upland wall and… Rock Climbing
2+
Velbloudí věž
From the base of the South wall, take the chimney between the foreland and the tower to… Rock Climbing
5+
Tlustá teta
Take the chimney of the Old Route, then up the wall directly over the borehole to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Velbloudí věž
From the foreland, traverse right into the south wall and take that to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Tlustá teta
In the North wall, chimney to the ring in the massif, chimney to the 2nd ring and then… Rock Climbing
6-
Tlustá teta
Take the chimney directly to the ring. Take the oblique crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Tlustá teta
In the valley wall, take the corner to the slab to the ring, then up the wall and the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Tlustá teta
From the massif, jump directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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