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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Markétina věž (Kopretinová věž)
In the northwest wall, standing from the boulder and ledge to the right. Narrow chimney … Rock Climbing
4-
Bivoj
From the valley side, on the right through a gully between the massif and the tower,… Rock Climbing
3
Bivoj
From the north, gully to the chimney. Overgrown ledge in the massif to the left to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Lahvička
From the ledge in the massif from the south, corner and crack to the foot of the… Rock Climbing
3
Lahvička
From the ledge in the massifs, chimney from the east to the foot of the southeast edge.… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Bivoj
To the right of route c) chimney in the massif and gully to the pulpit. Jump to the left,… Rock Climbing
5
Bivoj
On the left of route a) chimney between the tower and the massif to the wedged boulder… Rock Climbing
4+
Bivoj
On the left in the valley wall, diagonally to the right. Crack to the balcony and on the… Rock Climbing
4-
Zpustlý kastelán
Chimney along the left uphill edge, then chimney and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Zpustlý kastelán
On the left in the valley wall, corner crack to the saddle. Chimney and right (ring) and… Rock Climbing
2
Zpustlý kastelán
Rock Climbing
3
Zpustlý kastelán
From the uphill side, chimney diagonally to the right. Then wall or chimney. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Zpustlý kastelán
On the left in the massif, briefly descend, jump to the step under the abseiling ring and… Rock Climbing
4+
Kastelánka
Chimney between the massif and the tower to the ring. Traverse right and face. Rock Climbing
4+
Kastelánka
By the upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Kastelánka
Descent through the center of the massif and jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Kuncova stěna (Rákosová stěna)
Chimney between the massif and the tower (northeast edge) to the niche and traverse right… Rock Climbing
4-
Kuncova stěna (Rákosová stěna)
Chimney between the massif and the tower. Then face to the right and edge. Rock Climbing
2+
Kuncova stěna (Rákosová stěna)
To the right of the southeast edge, a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Kuncova stěna (Rákosová stěna)
Rock Climbing
2+
Kuncova stěna (Rákosová stěna)
On the right in the west face, a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Kuncova stěna (Rákosová stěna)
Southwest corner to the balcony. Chimney and over an overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Rákosník
Chimney between the tower and the massif and left to the edge and beyond the edge. Along… Rock Climbing
2+
Kuncova stěna (Rákosová stěna)
On the right in the south face, a chimney and face to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kuncova stěna (Rákosová stěna)
On the left in the south face, a corner into the chimney and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Rákosník
On the right in the upland face, a chimney leading to platform then via Old route to the… Rock Climbing
3
Rákosník
From the south, a groove and face diagonally left to the balcony. To the right of the… Rock Climbing
3
Slunovratový kámen (Trojče)
To the left of the Northeast chimney, a groove and edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Slunovratový kámen (Trojče)
From the start of the Old Route, briefly through a chimney and right to the balcony. Face… Rock Climbing
5+
Rákosník
In the middle of the upland face, a chimney between the tower and the massif upwards and… Rock Climbing

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