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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Železná věž
North face to the platform and crack to the ledge. Traverse the face (ring) and face to… Rock Climbing
4+
Železná věž
Northeast edge to the ledge to the ring of route c), then to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Železná věž
West face (ring). Rock Climbing
4+
Býk
In the left part of the north face, a corner to the balloon. Rock Climbing
4+
Býk
From the southeast onto a boulder by the east face. Ridge diagonally to the right. Rock Climbing
3
Býk
To the left, route d), crack to the balcony. Left, gully to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Býk
To the right of the Old Route, corner to the platform. Build and crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Býk
On the right in the south face. Rock Climbing
4-
Býk
To the left of route e), ridge and crack to the balcony. Rock Climbing
5
Býk
Up the West face diagonally left to the ring. Up the wall to the balcony, over the… Rock Climbing
2+
Býk
Crack and chimney in the south face. Rock Climbing
5
Býk
born. At the Northwest corner, build up to the edge and follow it past the bolt to the… Rock Climbing
5
Býk
To the left of the Old Route, up the wall to the footbridge leading left into the West… Rock Climbing
2+
Býk
On the right in the north face, follow the crack to the balcony, then take the Old Route… Rock Climbing
5+
Vůl
m from the Hvězda route, up the wall and diagonally right along the crack, higher up… Rock Climbing
5
Volský kužel
On the left side of the South face to the footbridge, up the gully to the platform and… Rock Climbing
4-
Vůl
In the North face, up the crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Vůl
In the upper wall, near the edge to the footbridge (birch), traverse left and up the… Rock Climbing
5+
Volský kužel
Along the arched Southwest edge to the ring of the "Old Route". Left along the edge to… Rock Climbing
4+
Volský kužel
To the right of the southeast edge, build and use the gully to the sloping ledge. Up the… Rock Climbing
5+
Volská věž
Unprotected! Rock Climbing
3
Volská věž
Along the Southwest edge to the platform. Build up to the summit. Unprotected! Rock Climbing
4+
Volská věž
Crack in the South face. Unprotected! Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Volská věž
Southeast edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Homolka
From the left upper edge, traverse along the ledge to the right, up the upper wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kohoutí věž
From the east massif, a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
?
Kohoutí věž
From the southwest, descend from the massif to the ledge near the edge and jump to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Kohoutí věž
In the west face, through a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kohoutí věž
Through the center of the South face directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Veverka
By the south edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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