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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Sojčí věž
From the crumbling band, higher up the wall (hidden slings) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Sojčí věž
Descent from the massif and step over (jump - 1) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Sojčí věž
Along the downhill edge around the circle to the circle of the Mechová route and that one… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Trčoun
From the plateau wall, up the chimney or crack to the pre-summit and jump (1) to the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Trčoun
In the middle of the downhill wall, up the wall and corner (circle) to the 2nd circle and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Trčoun
In the downhill western wall, up the wide crack (circle) into the chimney. Up it to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Hraniční jehla
Near the west edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Hraniční jehla
East wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Hraniční jehla
In the south wall briefly through the gully to the footbridge, through the wall to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Pytel
Northeast edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Korunková jehla
From the north of the massif jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Pytel
NW edge (construction) over the bolt directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Pytel
Left of the uphill edge through the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Korunková jehla
From the massif overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Korunková jehla
From the chimney between the tower and the massif to the right to the balcony (ring) and… Rock Climbing
5+
Temná jehla
Downhill SE edge n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Korunková jehla
In the downhill wall through the corner and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Korunková jehla
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif under the rope to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Temná jehla
South wall along the edge over BH directly n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Korunková jehla
From the uphill side through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Temný kámen (Hejkal)
On the right in the uphill wall, through the oblique overhanging crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Temná jehla
Uphill SW edge n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Strážce Temného dolu
Left of the downhill edge through the center of the wall over the crystals to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Temný kámen (Hejkal)
On the right in the west wall, through the wall over the overhang and the wall to the… Rock Climbing
3
Strážce Temného dolu
To the left of the old route, up the wall to the left and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Meloun
Up the N wall via the ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Meloun
From the left along the eastern edge. Rock Climbing
2+
Strážce Temného dolu
On the left in the upper wall to the right and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Strážce Temného dolu
On the right in the valley-side wall below the overhang, across the footbridge through… Rock Climbing
6-
Meloun
Rock Climbing Textile belay

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