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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Meloun
Through the center of the southern wall, over the overhang (ring) and through the center… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Němý svědek
From the SE corner of the massif, jump to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Němý svědek
Along the upper edge to the ring. Traverse to the right and through the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Němý svědek
Via the route "Long March" to the ring and from there directly to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Meloun
From the balcony in the northern wall (positioned) to the ring and through the crack to… Rock Climbing
3
Němý svědek
From the S through the chimney between the tower and the E subpeak to the saddle and then… Rock Climbing
3
Němý svědek
On the right at the W edge over several overhangs and through the gully to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Němý svědek
In the center of the S wall (building/stacking) to the small pillar and to the right into… Rock Climbing
2+
Němý svědek
On the left in the upper wall, through the corner between the tower and the E subpeak to… Rock Climbing
3
Němý svědek
Along the E edge to the subpeak and then a transition to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Němý svědek
Through the gully in the valley-side wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Hraniční kámen
At the S edge (building/stacking) and directly along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Němý svědek
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif, then up the gully to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Železná ostrožna
Through the chimney between the tower and the massif, then up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Hraniční kámen
On the left in the SE wall, across the ring, up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Orlí věž
From the edge directly over the clocks to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Hraniční kámen
On the right in the SE wall, directly to the top via the ring. Rock Climbing
5+
Hraniční kámen
Through the center of the SE wall along cracks, higher up diagonally to the right to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Hraniční kámen
From the left to the NW edge and across the footbridge to the supplied ring. Wall and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Orlí věž
From the upland side, chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Orlí věž
In the S face diagonally to the right and chimney in the valley face, higher up take the… Rock Climbing
4+
Orlí věž
Briefly in the chimney of the Old Route, face diagonally right to the clocks and edge to… Rock Climbing
6
Orlí věž
In the center of the valley face, crack and face over 3 rings to the Old Route and then… Rock Climbing
5
Orlí věž
To the left of the Old Route, face diagonally left to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Kyjovský král
Chimney between the massif and the upland edge, then edge to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Brtnička
From the right onto the South edge and face along it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Kyjovský král
From the massif, jump to the step and take the "Old Route" to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Kyjovský král
Upland face to the ring. Build and face to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Železná věž
Crack in the south face (ring) to the ledge and gully to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Železná věž
Southwest edge (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing

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