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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Amerika
Through a crack to the left of the Ozzmosis route on the foothills, then up another crack. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Amerika
Via the chimney. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Amerika
Via a crack to K and up the wall straight to the ledge, from the right. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Orlí stěna
In the middle of the NW face over 2 Ks and a crack. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7-/7
Amerika
Up the wall along the left edge over the hole to the 1st K, straight to the 2nd K and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Orlí stěna
In the northwest face via a chimney to a large hole, to the left to K. Via the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Orlí stěna
From the southwest edge, via an overhanging crack and higher up via a gully to the right… Rock Climbing
5+
Orlí stěna
In the middle of the south face to the crack, via it to the ledge and another crack to… Rock Climbing
4-
Pravčela
The left part of the NE face and using the chimney edge Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Pravčela
Along the right plateau edge into the horizontal crack, along it to the right to K.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Ratlík
To the right of the "Dog Terror" route, an overhanging wall into a large hole in the edge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Ratlík
Over an overhang via small holds to a hand crack, higher up via a wider crack. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Strážce Kyjovského údolí
With stemming on the overhanging E edge to the platform. Along the edge or right up the… Rock Climbing
5
Strážce Kyjovského údolí
Directly to the projection via a crack and then via the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Strážce Kyjovského údolí
From the edge to the ring (stemming) and then along the edge over the 2nd ring to the… Rock Climbing
2
Pravčela
Via the plateau chimney, variation. Rock Climbing
6
Strážce Kyjovského údolí
Through the center of the plateau wall to the rib (ring) and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce Kyjovského údolí
From the E edge slightly down to the projection on the left. Via a sloping gully and… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Strážce Kyjovského údolí
From the massif descend to the platform and jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Strážce Kyjovského údolí
A long jump from the massif directly onto the tower. Rock Climbing
5+
Hláska Stürmerova dolu
Southwest edge. Unprotected! Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
4+
Strážce Kyjovského údolí
From the massif in the middle of the plateau wall descend to the ledge and with stemming… Rock Climbing
4+
Hláska Stürmerova dolu
Through the right part of the northwest face via holes to the saddle. Rock Climbing
4-
Osadní kámen
From the NW corner directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Hláska Stürmerova dolu
Via the south face and gully. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Osadní kámen
From the SE crack directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Osadní kámen
Like the "Northwest Corner" route, 2m up and right to the pulpit, then higher along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Osadní kámen
In the right part of the plateau wall, up the wall diagonally to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Osadní kámen
On the left side of the plateau wall to a small balcony and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Sojčí věž
Right of the downhill edge, up the wall via pyrite to the crumbling band (slings).… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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