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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Urakova hora
From the passage between the tower and the massif, chimneying to K and up an overhanging… Rock Climbing
5+
Urakova hora
From the passage into the hole and up a wide crack n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Hřebenová věž
In the left part of the South face via crack n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Hřebenová věž
Jump from the Pup n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Hřebenová věž
Between the massif and the tower along an indistinct edge n. v. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Hřebenová věž
From the massif jump onto the balcony to the edge to the right of the route "Northern… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Hřebenová věž
Through the middle of the South face, chimney between the massif and the tower, higher up… Rock Climbing
2+
Hřebenová věž
Via the right upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Hřebenová věž
From the left edge in the South face along steps to the right into the chimney and n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Hřebenová věž
Through the middle of the South face via crack n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Hřebenová věž
From the hiking trail over the collapsed boulders and up the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Hřebenová věž
Overhang from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Stolice
Through the center of the SW wall over 1 K. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Stolice
Up the left part of the SW wall around 2 K. Rock Climbing
6-
Stolice
From NW to a small pillar and briefly to K, then straight up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Stolice
In the center of the NW wall, up the chimney. Rock Climbing
5
Stolice
Right of the 'Something for Spartacus' route, up the corner under the overhang, step left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Stolice
Start on the 'Happiness is Near' route to a hole, right to K and up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Poslední masív
From the 1st K of the "Valley Route" directly up the rib and on the left up the crack. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Danger
6
Poslední masív
Through the center of the overhanging valley wall to 1st K, slightly right to 2nd K and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Větrná řehole
To the left in the S face, over a small overhang into the hole and along the face over… Rock Climbing
4-
Větrná řehole
Through the center of the S face by a crack to the end of the notch and further along the… Rock Climbing
4+
Větrná řehole
To the left in the valley's face under the overhang. Below it to the right to the balcony… Rock Climbing
5+
Větrná řehole
To the left in the valley's face of the southern pillar, up into a small hole, further to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Větrná řehole
South face of the southern pillar from the left n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Větrná řehole
To the right in the valley's face of the southern pillar by a small wall to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Dvojhran
In the valley's west face, left of the chimney, along the edge to K. From there, left to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
3
Dvojhran
Corner. chimney between the blocks n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Dvojhran
To the left in the valley's face by a double crack, higher by a wide crack n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Dvojhran
Through the center of the N face into the notch and n. v. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1

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