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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Masív u Sáhiba
Along the left edge of the massif over K n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Masív u Sáhiba
To the right of the crack, by a lieback to the 1st K, over the overhang to the 2nd K and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Strážce Tiských stěn
Up the overhanging S wall to the K and a crack to the ledge. Traverse left into the… Rock Climbing
2+
Strážce Tiských stěn
From the edge of the massif, an overhang into the wall, traverse left into the notch and… Rock Climbing
5
Masív u Sáhiba
Hand crack, later a chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Strážce Tiských stěn
From the overhang, along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Strážce Tiských stěn
Through the middle of the valley wall to the K. Left and up into the large hole (above it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Masív u Sáhiba
Start about 20 m to the right of Sáhib. Slightly right to the edge to the K and either up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Tréninkový masív
Start with the crack in the NW wall, to the left to the edge to the ring and to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Tréninkový masív
Via the large chimney (sling) to the ring. From the left (hourglass) to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Tréninkový masív
From the NW side via the wall around the ring to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Tréninkový masív
Start between the massif and Cimbur. Along the S edge over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Tréninkový masív
On the left in the S wall via the hand crack to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Kamenný stůl
In the S wall into the wide crack to the ring and via the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Kamenný stůl
Start from the passage from the Zbojnicka tower. Through the hole in the wall to the ring… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Gotické okno
Start with the crack on the right in the W wall to its end and via the small wall to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Gotické okno
Via the pillar to its end to the small ring, traverse to the right and via the wall to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Kamenný stůl
In the W wall via the rounded edge across the small ring to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7/7+
Kamenný stůl
From the W with the salty overhang over the 1st ring into the crack to the 2nd ring and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Gotické okno
Via the inclined S wall into the corner to the small ring and from there straight to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Herkules
In the right part of the S wall through the hole to the left to the small chimney and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Herkules
To the left of the "Údolní spára" route, overhang to K. Over the overhang and wall along… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4+
Herkules
On the left in the S wall via the crack, to the left and via the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Herkules
From the gully in the middle of the wall via 2 rings to the 2nd ring of the route 'Drama… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Herkules
On the right in the S wall via the rib to the ring. Via the crack onto the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Herkules
From the 1st ring of the route 'Rabbit Intentions' through the center of the pillar (ring… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Herkules
In the passage between the tower and the massif, through the center of the E wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Herkules
In the left part of the S wall into the hole and to the right to the ring, from there… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Herkules
From the 1st K of the Western Edge route directly to the 3rd K of the Steady Nerves route. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Herkules
In the right part of the S wall to the 1st K, wall along the edge, higher up a opposing… Rock Climbing

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