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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Herkules
Through the center of the S wall along the crack to the 1st K, briefly traverse left (can… Rock Climbing
6
Herkules
Wall to the right of the Údolní spára route directly over 3 K n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Herkules
In the W wall, a wide crack n. v. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Herkules
To the right of the Unknown Route, over three stainless steel K to the 2nd K of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
Přeskok
Herkules
Left in the massif jump to the "Shadow Edges" ledge and to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
Přeskok
Herkules
To the right of the massif, jump to a small saw and cracks n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Herkules
From the massif falling into the wall and n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Masiv za Herkulem
To the left of the "Cold Shower" route, wall over 3 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Herkules
m to the left of the „Highland Road“ jump to the ledge and wall n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Masiv za Herkulem
From the 1st K of the Pangasius route, left crack to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Masiv za Herkulem
In the right part of the massif wall (between Hercules and the massif, crack and wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6+/7-
Rašeliniště
Start up the crack on the right in the J face and then straight up over 2 K. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Rašeliniště
From the S side, left of the passage through the wall into a small corner. Up the small… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Urakova hora
In the left part of the N face, up the overhanging rib to the 1st K and over the 2nd K. Rock Climbing
5+
Urakova hora
From the 1st K of the 'Severní cesta' route, right to the edge and along it over the 2nd… Rock Climbing
5+
Urakova hora
In the right part of the N face, up the overhanging crack to the 1st K. From there, left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Urakova hora
In the valley's W face, right of the chimney, up the face to the 1st K and directly up… Rock Climbing
6-
Urakova hora
Up the face left of the Zetka route to K and directly to the 2nd K of that route. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Urakova hora
In the W face, left of the chimney into a hole, higher up to a small corner and up to K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Urakova hora
Up the chimney in the center of the valley face. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Urakova hora
From the 2nd K of the 'Velký strach' route diagonally right over a ledge to the 3rd K,… Rock Climbing
5+
Urakova hora
In the East face, in the transition between the massif and the tower, crack over K and… Rock Climbing
6
Urakova hora
From the SW overhanging edge, diagonally right through a hole into the J face to the 1st… Rock Climbing
5+
Urakova hora
From the J face with a small overhang. Traverse rightwards under the overhang, crossing… Rock Climbing
6-
Urakova hora
Via 'Beware of the Cap,' under the overhang to the left into the J face towards K. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Urakova hora
From a large boulder, traverse right over K to the edge into the 'Herci na provaze' route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Urakova hora
Straight up the face over a BH into the 'Rekviem' route and up it. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Urakova hora
In the right part of the East face, overhanging crack n. v. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Urakova hora
From the massif, briefly descend down and jump n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Urakova hora
To the right in the East face, overhanging wall to 1st K, then up the wall over 2nd K n.… Rock Climbing

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