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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Větrná řehole
Southern edge (clock n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
2
Větrná řehole
Chimney between the tower and the massif n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Dvojhran
To the left of the Hand Crack over 2 BH n. v. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Dvojhran
From BH directly along the edge to K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Dvojhran
Left, down the NW edge, right from the chimney to the BH, left and back to the right to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Dvojhran
Along the Southwest edge to a balcony, to the left behind the edge and through a crack. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Dvojhran
To the left in the valley's west face into the hole (clock and crack to the 1st K. Face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Dvojhran
Through the center of the South wall to a bolt and further up the wall. Rock Climbing
4+
Kozlíkův masiv
To the left in the North wall, by a chimney to the left and further along the edge. Rock Climbing
6
Kozlíkův masiv
Through a crack to the first bolt, then through a crack, initially overhanging, to a… Rock Climbing
5+
Dvojhran
To the right of the Slunná route, via a short edge over a drilled bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Dvojhran
To the right in the South wall, through a corner. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Kozlíkův masiv
In the left part of the North wall, to the right to a bolt and up the wall. Rock Climbing
5+
Kozlíkův masiv
To the left of the Northern Crack, via a hand crack, higher up through a chimney. Rock Climbing
5
Kozlíkův masiv
Through the center of the North wall, through a wide crack to a notch, through it to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Kozlíkův masiv
To the right in the North wall, by a crack to a bolt. Wall briefly up and higher through… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Kozlíkův masiv
At the right lower edge, through a hole and overhanging directly up the wall into the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Kozlíkův masiv
On the left in the lower West wall below the overhang. Below it to a chimney and higher… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Kozlíkův masiv
Through the right part of the lower wall, through a hole to a bolt, from the left into a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7/7+
Kozlíkův masiv
In the South wall, to the left, over a bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Kozlíkův masiv
In the left part of the South wall, briefly through a crack and left to a chimney,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Kozlíkův masiv
Via the "Fuk" route to a large hole, from there left through the center of the overhang … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Kozlíkův masiv
To the left of the Lower Route, by a chimney to a bolt, wall into a ledge and left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Kozlíkův masiv
Far right in the South wall, over one bolt. Rock Climbing
4+
Kozlíkův masiv
Through the center of the South wall to a ledge, leftwards and by a rib to a ledge to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Kozlíkův masiv
Up the chimney in the South wall. Rock Climbing
3
Amerika
Through the center of the side plateau wall, through a hole into a crack. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Kozlíkův masiv
To the left of the chimney, up a short crack into a notch and to a bolt, then along the… Rock Climbing
3
Amerika
To the left of the Iron Man route, using a chimney and a crack. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Kozlíkův masiv
In the South wall, through a corner to the right of the chimney, over a bolt. Rock Climbing

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