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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Květnová věž
Up the left part of the S face over K n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Květnová věž
Up the center of the S face via a small hole and a prominent bulge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Jánusova hlava
From the right part of the N face into a large hole (clock). Up into the shallow gully,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Květnová věž
Start from the hole in the middle of the N face via a crack to its end (K. Up the face… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Kosí věž
Up the right edge of the W tower in the S face over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Květnová věž
Up the W face into the niche (K, also accessible from the right edge). Chimneying into… Rock Climbing
10-/10
Kosí věž
To the right of the "Lobotomie" route, directly up the overhanging face over K and BH n.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Kosí věž
Up the center of the S face of the W tower to K. Directly up the face into the rib and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Kosí věž
In the S face via a crack into the notch and in the upper part via the SW edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Kosí věž
Far right in the S face of the E tower at the edge, into the lower chimney and into the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Kosí věž
Up the N face to the right of the Hra pro život route over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Kosí věž
Up the valley-side S face of the E tower into a prominent hole, from the right into… Rock Climbing Textile belay Overhang
5+
Kosí věž
By the rib to the right of the Kosí cesta route to the end (K. Up the face to the right n… Rock Climbing
4-
Kosí věž
On the right in the N face of the E tower upwards, to the left to the crack and up it n.… Rock Climbing
6-
Kosí věž
In the right part of the valley-side S face of the E tower into the crack and over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Kosí věž
Up the edge to the 1st K of the Selská brázda route. From there to the left onto the edge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Kosí věž
In the left part of the N face of the E tower into the hole to the 1st K, to the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Kosí věž
On the left in the N face of the W tower, by a notch, higher up to the left into the… Rock Climbing
2+
Kosí věž
From the W edge of the rock by an overhang and a small wall to the W summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Kosí věž
In the right part of the N face of the W tower, up the face of the adjacent pillar to K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Kosí věž
Through the chimney between the W summit and the massif n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Kosí věž
Up the left edge of the pillar over K to its summit. Up the face to the pre-summit and… Rock Climbing
4-
Kosí věž
From the N via the chimney between both summits over the overhang and higher up the face… Rock Climbing
5
Strážce Tiských stěn
Up the edge into the recess, left into the crack and n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Strážce Tiských stěn
Through the recess in the SW wall to its end, traverse right into another recess and up… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Strážce Tiských stěn
Without stemming, straight up the wall. Rock Climbing
6-
Strážce Tiských stěn
In the right part of the N wall under the overhang to the 1st K, over the overhang right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Strážce Tiských stěn
From the 2nd K, up the wall along the edge to the left over the 3rd K n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Strážce Tiských stěn
Up the chimney in the SW edge a few meters, traverse left up the wall into the chimney… Rock Climbing
6-
Strážce Tiských stěn
In the left part of the N wall along the rib and over the overhang to the platform to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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