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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

1
Sloní noha
By a jump from the massif n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Malý kužel
By the overhanging crack in the narrow valley wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Malý kužel
Through the center of the north face into the crack and by it n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Malý kužel
In the right part of the south face, by hand crack (sokolík) to K and by the wall n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Malý kužel
By the corner crack n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Malý kužel
Through the center of the south face of the tower, then right and along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Ptačí věže - jihozápadní
On the right in the north wall under the overhang, right into the crack and up it to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Ptačí věže - jihozápadní
By the wall under the overhang and traverse left to K. By the wall n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Radnice
Through the center of the left massif over K n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Ptačí věže - jihozápadní
From the passage between the towers upwards, higher through the gully n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Ptačí věže - jihozápadní
Up the wide crack to its end, left into the next crack and up. Rock Climbing
4+
Ptačí věže - jihozápadní
Up the crack from the northwest and higher up the recess. Rock Climbing
6
Ptačí věže - jihozápadní
In the west wall of the main peak over 2 K. Rock Climbing
4-
Ptačí věže - jihozápadní
Up the chimney from the west to K and up the crack. Rock Climbing
4-
Ptačí věže - jihozápadní
From the southwest wall diagonally left to the small falcon and through it over the ledge. Rock Climbing
6
Ptačí věže - jihozápadní
To the right of the chimney in the southwest wall, up the overhanging crack to K. Right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Ptačí věže - jihozápadní
From the right onto the step and right up the rib. Rock Climbing
3
Ptačí věže - jihozápadní
Up the southwest wall crack. Rock Climbing
4+
Ptačí věže - jihozápadní
In the left part of the southwest wall to the left of the large clock, up the wide crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Ptačí věže - jihozápadní
From the east up the chimney. Rock Climbing
6-
Ptačí věže - severovýchodní
In the right part of the valley wall to K. Briefly upwards to the left into the gully and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Ptačí věže - jihozápadní
Along the edge of the attachment over the hole. Rock Climbing
4+
Ptačí věže - jihozápadní
Up the overhanging southwest wall over 1 K. Rock Climbing
2+
Ptačí věže - jihozápadní
On the right in the south wall up the chimney. Rock Climbing
4+
Ptačí věže - jihozápadní
Up the narrow wall of the attachment on the ledge and over the overhang. Rock Climbing
6
Ptačí věže - severovýchodní
Through the middle of the east wall into the hole (K. Up the wall to the left or straight… Rock Climbing
3
Oblá věž
Up the chimney in the east wall. Rock Climbing
6-
Ptačí vyhlídka
Start in the middle of the south pillar like the route 'Stormy Wine', then right to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Ptačí vyhlídka
Through the middle of the pillar to the first K. Through the wall into the hole and right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Ptačí věže - severovýchodní
From the passage between the towers along the edge. Rock Climbing

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