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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Ptačí věže - severovýchodní
In the right part of the west wall into the hole, above it K. Diagonally left up the wall. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Oblá věž
In the north valley wall, through a wide notch and later along the edge. Rock Climbing
5+
Oblá věž
In the west wall diagonally left into the hole and to K. Then straight up the wall. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Oblá věž
From the Old Route to the left into the SE recess and up it n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Oblá věž
In the S wall by a crack over a bulge n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Oblá věž
On the East side from left to right into a crack and up it n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Masiv u Brouka
Through the center of the N wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Oblouk
Right in the SE face directly over the overhang to the 1st K and through the 2nd and 3rd… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Oblouk
To the right of the "Dance Course" route to K and slightly to the left n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Oblouk
In the left part of the S wall directly over 1 K n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Oblouk
By the narrow, left chimney in the S face n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Oblouk
From the 1st K of the route "Invitation to Dance" to the 2nd K of the route "It is… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Oblouk
On the right in the SE wall, overhanging directly to K and then with a lieback climb n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Oblouk
In the right part of the E face via K to a ledge and through the center of the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Oblouk
By the crack all the way to the right in the N face to a ledge and by the left chimney n.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Oblouk
By a wide crack in the left part of the N face to a ledge and by the Dámská volenka route… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Oblouk
Right of the Dámská volenka route by the face around the hole (loops) n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Jánusova hlava
From K right upwards to another hole and n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Jánusova hlava
Through the center of the S face upwards and then left into the hole near the edge. Right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Jánusova hlava
Through the center of the S face via dK (added by the area manager in 1987) n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Jánusova hlava
From the overhang via 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Jánusova hlava
From the 2nd K through the hole to the S face, diagonally right to the edge and n. v. it. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Jánusova hlava
Start via the Old Road route, then to the 1st K, from it diagonally right upwards to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Jánusova hlava
From the 1st K of the Veselá taškařice route upwards diagonally left to the 2nd K and n.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Jánusova hlava
In the NE face diagonally left to K. Slightly overhanging wall to the crack and n. v. it. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Jánusova hlava
In the right part of the S face via 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Jánusova hlava
In the right part of the SE face into the overhanging crack, then to the edge and n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Jánusova hlava
In the left part of the N face upwards to K. From it left into the shallow gully and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
Přeskok
Květnová věž
Jump from Kosí věž to a ledge in the S face and n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Květnová věž
Up the overhanging SE edge into the crack and to K. Upwards over the overhang, along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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