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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

8/8+
Free Tibet
In the left part of the wall, directly up the wall over a ring and 2 bolts to the rappel… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+/8-
Jeruzalém
Through the middle of the narrow wall directly via the 1st bh, upwards and left to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Krákorka
In the right part of the wall via 3 BH n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
5
Krákorka
Up the wall diagonally left via 4 BH to the abseil 5th BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Karbidka
From the right downhill edge to the left up the wall via 2 BH to a ledge, up the sloping… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Karbidka
Start from W to a large slab, up its right part to a BH. Via a hole to the right onto a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Karbidka
Start from the terrace near the large block. Along the right edge via 2 BH to a ledge and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Karbidka
From the rock in the corner to the left to the 1st BH. Up the wall to the 2nd BH, left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Karbidka
On the left in the downhill wall via 3 BH to the 3rd BH (abseil) of the route "Bone… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Karbidka
In the left part of the wall, directly up the slabby wall via 2bh to a fissure and along… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
7+/8-
Karbidka
From the balcony directly up the slabby face via the 1st bh, from the right and directly… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Karbidka
Start SE up the sloping edge into a crack to the 1st BH, then over a spike (sling) to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
6
Sluneční tál
In the left part of the wall via the 1st (circumvent from the left) and 2nd BH into a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Sluneční tál
Via BH of the "Větračka" route, up the wall to the left to the 2nd BH and along the edge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Sluneční tál
Completely on the left from the rock up the wall into a hole, then via 2 BH to the 3rd… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Sluneční tál
Rightwards in the slab via BH to the right and a overgrown corner (can be finished at the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Sluneční tál
Along the crack in the middle of the wall via 3 BH to the 4th abseil BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Drnový masiv
Along the left downhill edge past K into a crack. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Drnový masiv
Up the narrow face on the downhill edge to a balcony (slings), then right via an oblique… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Drnový masiv
To the right of "The Middle Way" up the wall, n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Drnový masiv
Leftwards along a receding crack, n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Drnový masiv
Through the center of the wall V via BH, n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Oliva
Center of the downhill wall over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Drnový masiv
Start on the left in the chimney. Chimneying or face climbing through holes to the right,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Medusa
In the left part of the downhill E wall from the niche to the step. Wall n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Medusa
Corner in the SW wall to the ledge. Along it to the left to the crack and along it n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Medusa
From the right to the edge. Left up into the cut and by a crack n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Medusa
Crack through the center of the N wall to the niche and n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Oliva
On the left in the downhill wall by a crack to the edge, then to the shelf, from the left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Medusa
On the right in the downhill E wall to K and higher by a crack n. v. Rock Climbing

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