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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Brádle
From the gully, leftwards up the east face (1st ring bolt (K)) to a ledge and then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Brádle
By the right crack to the pillar, wall and left near the SW edge n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Brádle
By the right crack of the pillar and wall, traverse right (K) to crack, then by that… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Brádle
Start as for 'Cesta voliéry', then upwards to the left and via a crack to a bolt (Bh),… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Brádle
To the right of the downhill pillar, via the wall and crack under the overhang to a ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Brádle
From the right by the west face to a small balcony to 1st K. Right by SW edge to ledge,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Brádle
In the middle of the west face by crack n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Brádle
In the right part of the lower wall, via a rib to a large hourglass hold, then up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4-
Stará bašta
Right on the east side by corner-chimney between wall and right pillar n. t. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Stará bašta
From the north side by wall n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Stará bašta
By the right east pillar, wall and fissure to the pre-peak. Left by wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Stará bašta
On the massif right of St. Bastion by the left corner upwards, traverse right to 1st Bh… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
6
Stará bašta
Left by the east face and crack n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Stará bašta
Right of Spiral of Time by shallow corner under overhang. Traverse left to the crack of… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Stará bašta
Short chimney from west to pillar. Wall through a hole (K) and right by crack n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Stará bašta
Right of the SE edge, by wall over prominent holes to a blunt edge. That way n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6+/7-
Stará bašta
Left of the SE edge by wall and fissure to K. Wall to ledge and by the downhill route n.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Stará bašta
Right edge of the downhill pillar and chimney to the ledge. In it, a long traverse. Right… Rock Climbing
5+
Stará bašta
Short chimney from west to pillar. Right by ledge, traverse under the right crack, then… Rock Climbing
6-
Stará bašta
Wall along the SE edge (K) to the ledge, by the downhill route n. v. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Stará bašta
Through the middle of the south face (from Bivouac), wall, fissure and wall (K) to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Stará bašta
Short chimney from west to pillar. Right from the ledge, left by crack n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Stará bašta
Corner on the left in the west face n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Stará bašta
SW edge (K) and left by wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Sojčí stěna
In the right part of the wall, by falconet and wall over 2 K n. t. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Sojčí stěna
Right of the Sojčí balet route over 3K to the rappel point. (2nd K=dK) Rock Climbing
6
Sojčí stěna
Left by the south face over the balcony, crack and wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Sojčí stěna
Wall and falcon rib in the middle of the south face n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Sojčí stěna
Right by wall and falconet to 1st K. Right by wall to ledge and left to 2nd K. Wall n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Sojčí stěna
Up the wall along the SW edge and left along the crack, then up the wall n. v. Rock Climbing

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