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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Rajská věž
In the right part of the Údolní wall, up the corner to the 1st bolt. Upwards to the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
Přeskok
Rajská věž
From the Stolová hora massif, jump to a step in the NW edge, up the small wall to the… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Rajská věž
Over the overhang to the right of the Starci na chmelu route to the bolt. Slightly from… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Rajská věž
Start about 5 m to the right of the Stará Údolní route, up the overhanging crack and… Rock Climbing
5+
Rajská věž
To the right of the NE edge, up the wall under the overhang, to the left behind the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Rajská věž
To the right of the NE edge, up the wall under the overhang (like the Východní stěna… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Rajská věž
From the 2nd bolt to the left, up the crack over the overhang directly to the 3rd bolt. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Rajská věž
In the left part of the S wall onto a step. Up the wall to the right to the bolt. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Rajská věž
Up the SE edge (1st bolt) directly to the platform to the 3rd bolt of the Jižní cesta… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Stolová hora
Up the left uphill NE edge (from the gorge) over a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Stolová hora
Via the "Stará Údolní cesta" route to Rajská věž to the 1st bolt, then along the edge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
8+/9-
Stolová hora
Via the "Stará Údolní cesta" route to Rajská věž to the 1st ring, then along the edge and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4-
Rajská věž
From the NW edge traverse left in the N wall to a crack and follow it to a sloping… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Stolová hora
From the Blue Stone, up the slab (1st bolt) under the roof. Over the overhang from the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6
Stolová hora
In the W wall over holes to the right to the SW edge and along it over 2 bolts to the 1st… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Stolová hora
In the right part of the Údolní wall, up the wall to the 1st bolt. Up the wall and the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Stolová hora
To the left behind the Blue Stone, through a crack past a bolt under the overhang, and… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Stolová hora
By a chimney to the left behind "Blue Stone" onto a boulder, with a step over into a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6+/7-
Stolová hora
Left of the SW edge up the wall to a small balcony to the right behind the edge, up the… Rock Climbing
6
Stolová hora
From Blue Stone left up the wall to a wide crack, then along it over 2 bolts n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Modrý kámen
NE wall along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Modrý kámen
Like the Old Valley Route to Rajská věž to the step. Directly up the corner to the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Stolová hora
Left of "Direct Route" up the wall over 2 bolts to the 1st bolt of the route "Trip to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Stolová hora
From the balcony on the NW side in the ledge traverse right to the crack (1st bolt), then… Rock Climbing
4-
Modrý kámen
From the NE edge diagonally left up the wall to the ledge, through the center of the wall… Rock Climbing
4-
Modrý kámen
From E under the rappelling chimney and crack n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Modrý kámen
Along the right valley SE edge to the bench. Right or left along the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Modrý kámen
From W from the inner space by opposition to the block. By a chimney wedged under the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Modrý kámen
At the lowest point of the valley wall directly into the crack (to the right of the… Rock Climbing
4+
Modrý kámen
From the valley directly up the wall into the crack of the Southern Route. Rock Climbing

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