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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Lastura
By the SE chimney, reaching the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Lastura
From the ledge to the right of the chimney by an edge and a narrow face (2 rings). Rock Climbing
7-/7
Lastura
From the ledge to the left of the SE chimney, in the overhanging wall, via a crack to a… Rock Climbing
6
Lastura
To the left of the SE chimney, up the wall (crossing the 'Shell' route in the lower part)… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Jelení skála
Directly by the edge over 2 rings to the 1st ring of the "Law of Silence" route. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Jelení skála
By the "Valley Chimney" route for about 10 m, then up the face to the right (1st ring)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Jelení skála
By a crack in the W face. Rock Climbing
6-
Jelení skála
By the SW edge and a crack to the left. Rock Climbing
4+
Jelení skála
By the left valley chimney. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Jelení skála
To the right of "Roe Brown" by a narrow face of the pillar directly over a ring and the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Jelení skála
By the left edge ("Direct variant of the Law of Silence" route) to its 4th ring, left by… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6+/7-
Jelení skála
Up the face to the left of "Direct Route" and by a lieback to the 1st ring. Up the face… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Jelení skála
By a chimney into a gully and then by the E edge (1st ring). Rock Climbing
6-
Jelení skála
Up the face along the edge of the chimney and to the left to a ring. Up the face to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Jelení skála
Directly up the face past the 1st bolt to the ring of "Endless Paths", straight up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Jelení skála
By a chimney to a ledge and traverse left on it to the middle of the SE face and then by… Rock Climbing
5+
Jelení skála
Up the middle of the SE face and by a crack to a ledge. Rock Climbing
6-
Jelení skála
By the left crack in the SW face to a ledge, traverse right to a crack and then up it … Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Jelení skála
By a chimney, an overhang and a small wall. Rock Climbing
5
Jelení skála
By a chimney to the right into a gully, then by a crack in the NE face. Rock Climbing
4+
Nová pekárna
Through the chimney between Stará and Nová Pekárna n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Nová pekárna
Through the middle downhill crack (K) n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Nová pekárna
Left up the wall (1st K) into the crack, along it to the 2nd K. Through the crack n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Nová pekárna
Left of the chimney, along the edge via 2 BH to the K of the “Dalamánek” route, and then… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Nová pekárna
Along the right downhill edge (3 BH), left along the rib to the 1st K of the “Tři oříšky.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Stará pekárna
Left, up the West wall (1st K), through the crack (2nd K) and directly up the wall n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Nová pekárna
Across the right chimney to the SE edge, along it (K) and shallow corners n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Nová pekárna
Via the prominent SE corner (K) n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Stará pekárna
From the chimney n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7-/7
Nová pekárna
Through the crack that turns into the right SE edge to the 1st K. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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