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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Zlomisková věž
From the platform left via a small crack and left along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Zlomisková věž
On the right in the East wall up a crack to a triangular block. From there over two… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Zlomisková věž
On the right in the North wall briefly upwards, then left into the notch and through it… Rock Climbing
5
Zlomisková věž
To the left of the West route to the platform, from there up the wall under the overhang… Rock Climbing
3
Vatikán
Through the notch in the NW wall n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Vatikán
On the left up the S wall to the recess. Along the crack diagonally to the right to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Vatikán
To the right of the SW edge by the narrow wall to the balcony, further by the overhanging… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Vatikán
Through the middle of the West wall via a crack n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Vatikán
From the highest point of the SW wall by the deep notch, higher up by the overhanging… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Vatikán
From the slope in the West wall, through cracks and a fissure to the balcony, then along… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Zlomisková věž
In the right part of the West wall to a double crack, then onto the platform and up the… Rock Climbing
4-
Vatikán
From the highest point of the SW wall, diagonally right through a crack to a ledge, then… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kóta 18
In the middle of the wall by the most prominent pillar over 2 dK n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Vatikán
Start in the SE corner. By the corner to the balcony and by fissures over the anchor to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Kóta 18
Through the middle of the wall over the anchor n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Vatikán
On the right in the S wall by the overhanging notch and the wall to the anchor. From the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Vatikán
SE edge n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Kóta 18
By the left pillar n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Kóta 18
On the left in the wall along the indistinct recess n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Wentovka - levá část
By chimney climbing into the corner and through it n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Kóta 18
By the crack on the right in the wall diagonally to the left n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Kóta 18
By the wall (belay) and recess n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Kóta 18
On the right in the wall up to the ledge to the white break. Over the overhang to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Wentovka - levá část
By the wall at the left edge to the balcony and from it on the left by the recess n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Wentovka - levá část
By the wall and notch to the balcony, on the left by the corner n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Wentovka - levá část
From the balcony straight up by the crack n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Wentovka - pravá část
Along the rounded edge by the wall straight up n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Wentovka - pravá část
By the vertical wall to the right of the distinct crack straight up n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Wentovka - pravá část
To the left of the blunt edge by the wall and crack n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Žemle
By the notch along the edge, higher up on the left by the wall to the anchor. On the left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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