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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Dži - dži
Up the gentle right upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Dži - dži
From the west edge, via a ring, directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Věž národního parku
From the saddle, along the upper edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Alenčino zrcadlo
In the upper face on the right and via the east edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Alenčino zrcadlo
Through the center of the upper (South) face directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Soudek (Beatricina věž)
From the South overhang diagonally to the left to behind the edge into the hollow and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Věž národního parku
From the East, follow the crack and hollow to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Lesovik
Along the rounded uphill (East) edge directly to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Soudek (Beatricina věž)
Simple construction into the hollow of the Heineken route and up it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Soudek (Beatricina věž)
From the Valley side, up the wide, initially overhanging, crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Lesovik
Using the small chimney along the lower edge, passing 2 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Soudek (Beatricina věž)
From the uphill side, up the wall into the gully and up the steps to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Soudek (Beatricina věž)
Start to the left of "Old Route" up the ladder and wall directly to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Kost
In the right part of the valley wall, over the ring into the corner, then to the hole and… Rock Climbing
4-
Kost
SW edge directly over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Schovaný kužel
On the left in the uphill wall, directly over the overhang to the ring. Along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Schovaný kužel
On the right side of the V wall, diagonally to the right over the ring to the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kost
South wall to the overhang and right to the edge (ring). Higher up on the left, up the… Rock Climbing
6-
Schovaný kužel
On the left in the uphill wall, diagonally to the left to the ring. Along the edge past… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Simsalabim
Leaning wall Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Schovaný kužel
In the left part of the V wall, over 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Simsalabim
Center of the wall Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
4-
Simsalabim
With an edge Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
4+
Schovaný kužel
In the uphill wall, through a crack diagonally to the right to the ring and up the wall… Rock Climbing
5
Simsalabim
Over the overhang and up the edge straight up Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
2+
Simsalabim
Through the recess from the West Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Masiv u Strážce zlomiska
Up the short wall on the right East face on the slope. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Strážce zlomiska - severní vrchol
Start on the West face. Up the wall over the bolt to the edge and up it. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Strážce zlomiska - severní vrchol
To the left of "Shouting Edge", up the wall over the bolt straight up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Strážce zlomiska - severní vrchol
Mystery VI; Jiří Rosol, D. Hölzl, 16. 8. 2007. Start on the East face in the corner to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing

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