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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Letní kámen
In the left part of the uphill wall (building up) to the ledge and on the left by the… Rock Climbing
5
Letní kámen
On the left, along the downhill edge to the ledge, right to the balcony and on the left… Rock Climbing
5
Letní kámen
To the right of the Old Route, by the gully along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Březová věžička
By the edge straight to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Letní kámen
On the right in the uphill wall, by the wall diagonally to the right to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Strážce mostků
Climb the upper edge to the sub-summit and follow the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Křinická věž
Climb the valley (west) face over a ring to a chimney and left to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Křinická věž
From the center of the south face, traverse left to a ring. Chimney and wall upwards (3 x… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Křinická věž
In the left part of the S wall, by the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Křinická věž
In the right part of the S wall, by the wall (ring) and the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Křinická věž
From the massif, descend the chimney and crack. Overhang and climb the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Křinická věž
From the south, climb the chimney between the tower and the massif to the platform. Climb… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce mostků
Climb the wall along the southeast edge (2 x old fixed gear - 'clocks') to the sub-summit… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Strážce mostků
From the upper wall, climb a narrow chimney to the sub-summit and then the wall to the… Rock Climbing
5
Strážce mostků
Climb up along the left upper edge and right to the ring of the African Route. Follow… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce mostků
Climb the chimney in the valley face to the sub-summit and follow the Old Route to the… Rock Climbing
5
Strážce mostků
To the left of the Old Route, climb a short crack and traverse left to a ring. Climb the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Věž Mostkového dolu
From the south, jump from the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Melzerova jehla
From the south, traverse left to the left valley edge and follow it past 2 summit rings. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Melzerova jehla
Climb using a chimney/corner between the right upper edge and the massif, then overhang… Rock Climbing
5
Melzerova jehla
Climb the upper wall past the old fixed gear (pitons/slings - 'clocks') to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Věž Mostkového dolu
From the north or south to the upper wall. Climb the chimney from the south between the… Rock Climbing
2+
Věž Mostkového dolu
From the east, briefly descend through the crack in the massif to the pillar and follow… Rock Climbing
4+
Černý kužel
To the right of the upper edge, climb the wall to the left to the crack and follow it to… Rock Climbing
4+
Bílinský kámen
Directly to the summit via the valley (south) face. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Bílinský kámen
Climb the left upper edge, then the wall to the left to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Bílinský kámen
Directly to the summit via the edge. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Bílinský kámen
On the left in the upper wall, climb the gentle rib to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Pytlácký kámen
On the left in the north face, up the chimney to the balcony and as for the South Chimney… Rock Climbing
2+
Pytlácký kámen
In the center of the south face, climb the chimney and then the wall using steps to the… Rock Climbing

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