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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Pytlácký kámen
On the right in the west face, directly up the face to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Pytlácký kámen
From the NW traverse left and up the overgrown gully into the chimney. As for the Old… Rock Climbing
3
Pytlácký kámen
In the south face, up the left-hand chimney and then up the face using the steps to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Pytlácký kámen
Between the South Chimney and the Old Route, climb the wall past a ring to the sub-summit… Rock Climbing
5
Pytlácký kámen
On the right in the south face, follow the crack through the hole to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Křinický král
Build up to the upland edge and then directly to the top via the ring. Rock Climbing
5
Křinický král
From the east edge, traverse left across the ring into the chimney of route 1. Audience.… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Křinický král
On the right in the south face, directly up the face to the ring of route 2. Audience,… Rock Climbing
5+
Křinický král
In the center of the south face, traverse left using a 'sokolík' (foot jamming move)… Rock Climbing
6-
Křinický král
Completely on the left in the south face, climb the slightly rough face to the recess … Rock Climbing
5+
Křinický král
In the NW face, climb the crack over 2 rings, then up the face to the right to the top. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Křinický král
Up the center of the NW face via 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Křinický kostel
Leap from the massif to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Křinický kostel
From the massif, descend to the right via a face, overhang and a face along the edge to… Rock Climbing
5+
Křinický kostel
In the valley face, climb the overhanging corner to the ledge and then up the wide crack… Rock Climbing
5+
Křinický kostel
To the left of the Valley Crack, climb the face diagonally left to the balcony (ring) and… Rock Climbing
3
Křinický kostel
From the massif, descend via the chimney to the ledge, step across and up the middle… Rock Climbing
4-
Křinický kostel
Follow the old route to the crack and ascend the left-hand crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Křinický kostel
On the right in the valley face, climb the narrow chimney to the saddle (also accessible… Rock Climbing
4-
Křinický kostel
As for the Old Route to the saddle, and then up the gully in the west face to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Postilión
Left of the north edge, up the face to the gully (ring). Up the gully to the balcony and… Rock Climbing
4+
Postilión
In the West face, use a powerful build-up to the slanted gully and up it to the balcony.… Rock Climbing
5+
Postilión
On the right in the upland face, ascend via the ring to a sloping ledge. Move left along… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Postilión
Directly up the left upland edge via 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Postilión
By placing yourself on the SE edge and then directly to the top via the ring. Rock Climbing
4+
Klekánice
Up the face on the right by the Southwest edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Klekánice
Up the Southeast edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Klekánice
Up the South face via a bolt directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Alenčino zrcadlo
Right of the west edge, up the face via a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Alenčino zrcadlo
Up a short crack in the middle of the north face to a boulder, then up the face via 3… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall

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