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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Strážce zlomiska - severní vrchol
Up the South face from the saddle from the South summit. Rock Climbing
6
Strážce zlomiska - severní vrchol
From the center of the valley face over 2 bolts. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Strážce zlomiska - severní vrchol
On the left in the upland East face, up the articulated corner. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Strážce zlomiska - jižní vrchol
From the West face diagonally right to the 1st corner. Up the wall to the right and along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Strážce zlomiska - jižní vrchol
From the center of the valley face along the crack and right on the wall to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Strážce zlomiska - jižní vrchol
From the block, across the overhang on the West face to the SW edge, then to the corner.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Strážce zlomiska - jižní vrchol
Up a system of cracks in the West face. Rock Climbing
5
Strážce zlomiska - jižní vrchol
In the left part of the West face along the articulated crack. Rock Climbing
2+
Strážce zlomiska - severní vrchol
In the right part of the upland East face. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Strážce zlomiska - jižní vrchol
Up the chimney from the East or West to the saddle and over the steps. Rock Climbing
6
Strážce zlomiska - jižní vrchol
From the 1st corner, up the wall to the right. Rock Climbing
4+
Nakloněná věž
From the upland side, briefly to the right and up the wall. Rock Climbing
6-
Nakloněná věž
On the left side of the East face, up the indistinct corner, then up the wall under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Nakloněná věž
From the center of the East face, up the crack and the wall to a large ledge. Left on the… Rock Climbing
5+
Zlomisková věž
Via the South Route to the large ledge in the South wall, through the left recess (K) n.… Rock Climbing
3
Nakloněná věž
In the NW wall, to the left of the West edge, through a recess diagonally upwards, then… Rock Climbing
6-
Zlomisková věž
Via the South Route to the large ledge in the South wall, through the middle recess (K) n… Rock Climbing
4+
Nakloněná věž
To the left of the Old Route up the wall into a small crack and up it n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Nakloněná věž
To the left of the Old Route through a recess to a prominent nose. Then along the smooth… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Zlomisková věž
From the West wall, traverse behind the SW edge to the large ledge in the South wall (K).… Rock Climbing
6
Zlomisková věž
Through the middle of the East wall from the left to the 1st K, briefly left and up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Zlomisková věž
On the left in the valley wall to K. Traverse to the first edge and along it to the large… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Zlomisková věž
Across the SW edge, crossing the traverse of the Old Route n. v. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Zlomisková věž
From K directly to the large ledge in the South wall. Via the South route n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Zlomisková věž
Through a crack in the SE edge to a ledge on the right, then chimney to the 1st K. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Zlomisková věž
From the 1st K of the "Trampoline" route via BH to K of the "New Eastern Route" and along… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4+
Zlomisková věž
Through the middle of the West wall, higher up via an overhanging edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Zlomisková věž
Over the steps near the NE edge to the ledge, through the groove and small crack n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Zlomisková věž
Along the edge to a small platform, from there briefly to the right and up a crack n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Zlomisková věž
With an indistinct edge (K) n. v. Rock Climbing

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