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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Dolní hrádek
In the valley wall, an overhanging crack leads to the summit. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Spálený hrad
In the center of the SW face, go up the wall across 4 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Spálený hrad
Descend to the left in the massif via the wall and gully. Overhang and chimney, then up… Rock Climbing
3
Dolní hrádek
On the uphill edge, chimneying between the tower and the massif, then up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Spálený hrad
Descend to the right in the massif along the edge and jump to the fore-summit. Descend… Rock Climbing
2+
Spálený hrad
In the S face, use the narrow chimney between the tower and the massif, then up the wall… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Spálený hrad
Like the Old Route, use the gully a few meters upwards and then right across the balcony… Rock Climbing
2+
Spálený hrad
From the N, use the gully to the saddle and then the chimney to the right between the… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Spálený hrad
To the right of the Rough Crack, go along the edge across 2 rings to the 3rd ring.… Rock Climbing
5
Spálený hrad
In the valley (W) face, use the corner crack and the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Döbelnský erb
Rock Climbing
3
Požárník
From the upper face, go right across the wall to the valley face and use the chimney to… Rock Climbing
4-
Döbelnský erb
Rock Climbing
2+
Döbelnský erb
From the N, use the chimney between the tower and the massif near the edge, then up the… Rock Climbing
4+
Požárník
In the SE face, briefly use the corner and traverse left across the iron ledge, then up… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Döbelnský erb
Like the Mountain Path, descend the gully 2m to the left and jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Döbelnský erb
Descend from the massif to the right via the gully and overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Černá paní (Dětská hlava)
From W or E by the chimney to the subrock and by the left edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Černá paní (Dětská hlava)
By the edge over 2 bolts, higher up left or straight to the top. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Vlasatice
By the SW edge over 2 rings straight to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Vlasatice
From E by the narrow chimney between the tower and the massif to the ledge, opposition… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Vlasatice
In the center of the downhill wall by the wall to the ring. First by the wall straight,… Rock Climbing
3
Vlasatice
From the massif descend to the ledge, overhang and by gully to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Březová věžička
By the chimney (using opposition technique) in the uphill wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Vlasatice
On the right in the downhill wall by the chimney to the East subpeak (rappel ring).… Rock Climbing
4-
Březová věžička
On the right in the S wall, by the wall diagonally to the left to the ledge below the… Rock Climbing
4+
Březová věžička
By the downhill edge straight to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Březová věžička
On the right in the uphill wall, by the wall 2m upwards to the edge and by it to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Březová věžička
From S from the massif by overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Letní kámen
Through the center of the uphill wall straight to the top. Rock Climbing

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