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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Zátiší
In the upland face, up the chimney to the sub-peak and then up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Zátiší
From the massif, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Jižní kříž
On the left in the west face, up the face near a small corner directly into the gully and… Rock Climbing
4-
Jižní kříž
To the right and in the west face, a short crack to a ledge, diagonally left up the face… Rock Climbing
4+
Jižní kříž
South edge over an overhang into the Southeast Route and follow that to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Jižní kříž
Like the "Upper Route," descend about 4 m, traverse right across a smooth belly, and from… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Kalich
From the massif descend through a ravine to the saddle. Traverse left into the valley… Rock Climbing
2+
Jižní kříž
From the massif descend via chimney to the saddle and then up the chimney that splits the… Rock Climbing
2+
Jižní kříž
From the south, a chimney between the tower and the massif, then up a gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Západní špička
Southeast chimney to the platform and edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Západní špička
From the massif, descend gullies to the platform. Jump (or 2m lower, a step over or drop)… Rock Climbing
2+
Jižní kříž
From the north, a chimney between the tower and the massif, then up the northeast edge to… Rock Climbing
3
Západní špička
Southeast chimney to the platform and from there, chimney right to the hole (clock), then… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Řádný občan
On the right in the uphill wall, chimneying between the massif and the tower to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Řádný občan
On the left in the uphill wall, over the shaft to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Západní špička
Northwest chimney to the saddle. Briefly chimney right and the edge to the ring. Right… Rock Climbing
3
Deštníková věž (Paraple)
Southeast wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Řádný občan
From the massif, a deep jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Řádný občan
From the massif, descend 3m via a crack and then a drop from a standing position to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Řádný občan
In the north wall, crack directly to the clock and then the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Řádný občan
From the uphill side to a ledge and traverse left into a depression in the north wall … Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Zelený pepř
Chimney between the tower and the sub-summit, then up the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Zelený pepř
In the east wall, diagonally right to a balcony in the valley wall and then build your… Rock Climbing
5+
Řádný občan
At the left valley edge upwards to a ledge and traverse right into a crack. Follow that… Rock Climbing
4+
Starosta
On the right in the south wall to a balcony and then a sloping wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Starosta
In the valley wall, a crack and gully to a balcony (ring). Wall first straight, then left… Rock Climbing
6-
Starosta
Uphill wall to the ring and then a wall diagonally right into the Old Route. Follow that… Rock Climbing
4-
Starosta
From the massif descend to the ledge. Drop from a (standing) position and then up the… Rock Climbing
5
Starosta
A chimney by opposition between the tower and the massif into the Official Route. Follow… Rock Climbing
4-
Dolní hrádek
In the east wall, a chimney leads to a rocky ledge and then a wall to the summit. Rock Climbing

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