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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Jedlový roh
m to the right of the Old Route, up the chimney to the balcony and up the wall directly… Rock Climbing
4-
Jedlový roh
From the crack and the wall, higher up the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Jedlový roh
Left of the Western Pillar, a crack to the ledge, traverse left past the ring and up the… Rock Climbing
5+
Jedlový roh
From the pillar, past the ring, directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Jedlový roh
About 8m left of the start of the Southern Route, up the chimney to the ledge. Left up… Rock Climbing
2
Jedlový roh
From the Southern edge, left onto the ledge. Through a crack to the balcony and up the… Rock Climbing
3
Jedlový roh
In the East face, through cracks and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Čertovo kvítko
Up the uphill edge to the ring (also through the center of the uphill face) and to the… Rock Climbing
6
Čertovo kvítko
Through the center of the downhill face directly over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Čertovo kvítko
From the uphill edge to the left to the trunk and up the left edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Koňský zub (Sluneční hlava)
From the uphill side diagonally up the face to the pillar. Up the edge to the ring and to… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Koňský zub (Sluneční hlava)
Up the face along the right uphill edge directly over 2K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Koňský zub (Sluneční hlava)
In the uphill face, building up into the crack, up that and to the right up the crack to… Rock Climbing
6-
Čertovo kvítko
Up the southwest edge to the ledge and to the left to the slings (also a traverse along… Rock Climbing
5
Koňský zub (Sluneční hlava)
Up the center of the east face to the crack and up that to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Koňský zub (Sluneční hlava)
At the left uphill edge (under the rappel anchor) directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Malá věž růžové zahrady
To the right of the Old Route, up the edge and gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Koňský zub (Sluneční hlava)
Up the southeast face diagonally to the left and up the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Malá věž růžové zahrady
To the left of the Old Route, along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Malá věž růžové zahrady
In the downhill (building) face, up the face and crack to the ledge. Traverse left to the… Rock Climbing
5
Malá věž růžové zahrady
On the right in the north face, up the smooth face under the rappel anchor to the summit.… Rock Climbing
3
Malá věž růžové zahrady
Up the south face into the chimney and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Malá věž růžové zahrady
In the downhill (west) face, up the pillar and face (slings) across the balcony to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Velká věž růžové zahrady
Directly up the east edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Hlava Růžové zahrady
Right in the downhill face via crack to the balcony and left up the overhanging face via… Rock Climbing
4-
Hlava Růžové zahrady
In the SW face over the overhang and up the face over the balcony to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Malá věž růžové zahrady
Via the corner in the north face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Velká věž růžové zahrady
In the exposed face, via massive stacking into the right crack, along it to the platform… Rock Climbing
2+
Velká věž růžové zahrady
Left of the North Route via chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Velká věž růžové zahrady
In the right part of the north face, via the chimney with the overhanging start to the… Rock Climbing

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