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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Strážce Vosího vrchu
From the East, take the gully and chimney with an overhanging start to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce Vosího vrchu
Scale the South face to the footbridge, stemming and edging to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Vosa
From the SW, take the crack to the ring and scale the face diagonally to the left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Vosa
To the right of the route "Žihadlo", take the edge to the ring and the gully above. Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Vosa
Take the uphill edge and scale the face to the right past the ring directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Vosa
On the uphill face, take the massive stemming and edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Jedový zub
Ascend the overhanging NE edge to the balcony and continue directly along the edge past 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Vosa
On the left side of the downhill face, take the gully to the ring and go left into… Rock Climbing
5+
Jedový zub
Start about 3 m to the right of „Dvojspára stěnou" (double crack wall) and take the crack… Rock Climbing
3
Jedový zub
On the right side of the North face, follow the crack to the balcony and continue as … Rock Climbing
3
Jedový zub
In the middle of the South face, follow the crack to the balcony and continue as … Rock Climbing
2+
Jedový zub
From the West, follow the ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Krkonošská věž
In the downhill (NE) face, take the gully to the balcony, then go left along the edge to… Rock Climbing
2+
Krkonošská věž
From the left or right to the block near the upper edge, then chimney left to the block.… Rock Climbing
5+
Orlická věž
In the South face, up a left-trending crack with an overhanging start to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Krkonošská věž
On the left side of the South face, follow the crack past the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Krkonošská věž
In the middle of the South face, up a chimney and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Orlická věž
Up the edge into the niche, left and up a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Orlická věž
Left in the upper wall to the ledge and traverse left to the end of the chimney, up the… Rock Climbing
5+
Krkonošská věž
About 6m left of the Old Route, through a fissure and the wall into a chimney. Up the… Rock Climbing
3
Orlická věž
In the middle of the North face, up a chimney with an overhanging start to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Orlická věž
Via the Old Route to the end of the crack and right through a fissure to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Strážce Pryskyřičného dolu
Right in the East face, through the notch to the hole and left to the ring. Up the wall… Rock Climbing
4+
Strážce Pryskyřičného dolu
Up the upper crack past the additional ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Orlická věž
Right of the Northern Chimney, up the chimney to the saddle and left up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Orlická věž
In the upper wall, a crack to the balcony and up the smooth wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Strážce Pryskyřičného dolu
Through the Valley Chimney directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Strážce Pryskyřičného dolu
Right in the South face, a crack over the overhang to the ring and right up the wall to… Rock Climbing
3
Jedlový roh
In the middle of the East face, through a corner, right and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Jedlový roh
Right in the East face, up the wall to the balcony near the edge. Through a gully and the… Rock Climbing

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