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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Velká věž růžové zahrady
Via the chimney near the SW edge and the right gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Velká věž růžové zahrady
Left of the east edge via crack to the balcony, traverse left and up the face to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Velká věž růžové zahrady
About 2m left of the Old Route, up the face over the ring into the traverse of the Old… Rock Climbing
5
Velká věž růžové zahrady
Up the center of the south face via crack over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Velká věž růžové zahrady
Right of the Southwest Chimney route, via the narrow left crack to the pre-summit and up… Rock Climbing
4+
Velká věž růžové zahrady
About 8m left of the Old Route, up the face over a prominence to the ledge. Via stacking… Rock Climbing
5
Velká věž růžové zahrady
Left of the start of the South Crack, up the face diagonally left into the gully. Up it… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Bašta růžové zahrady
From the massif descend left via gully and chimney to a large balcony and jump to the… Rock Climbing
3
Bašta růžové zahrady
From the north via chimney between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Skylla
Left of the south edge via chimney and face, then along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Skylla
Directly up the south edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Bašta růžové zahrady
Like 'Jump to the large balcony'. Descend completely to the right, overhang, and along… Rock Climbing
4+
Skylla
Directly up the center of the east face to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Věž Pryskyřičného dolu
Via the Magic Carpet route to the bore and directly to the summit with a 'falcon'. Rock Climbing
3
Skylla
Right up the face and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Věž Pryskyřičného dolu
Up the edge past a ring to a balcony and then via the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Věž Pryskyřičného dolu
Via the SE edge across the circle to the bore and from it left into the gully. Up it to… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Věž Pryskyřičného dolu
Up the center of the north face via a rib and the face past 2 rings, higher up the gully… Rock Climbing
3
Střílna
From the north, between the tower and the massif near the edge of the chimney, higher up… Rock Climbing
5
Věž Pryskyřičného dolu
Up the south face diagonally left into a niche (constructive) and up the face past an… Rock Climbing
2+
Střílna
From the west, up a chimney using opposition moves between the tower and the massif to a… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sýrový plátek
Up the left edge of the narrow northwest face past a ring to a ledge. Diagonally right up… Rock Climbing
2+
Střílna
From the south, up the chimney between the tower and the massif to a wedged boulder, up… Rock Climbing
6-
Sýrový plátek
Up the upland face and a rib to a ring, higher up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Sýrový plátek
From the highest point in the upland face, up the face to the left, past a (natural)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Střílna
Near the southwest edge, up a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Sýrový plátek
From the upland side, a ledge to the left into the valley face. Up the face past a ring… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Sýrový plátek
Start in the left part of the upland face. Traverse right to the edge and up it past a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Zátiší
From the east, up the gully and chimney to the sub-peak, like the Old Route to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kalich
From the massif, descend the face and a step-over to the summit. Rock Climbing

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