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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Jednorožec
On the left side of the uphill wall, climb the chimney between the tower and the massif… Rock Climbing
4-
Lidožrout
m to the left of the Vodníková (Water Nymph) edge, climb the wall directly to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Lidožrout
On the left side of the downhill wall, climb the overhanging crack and the wall to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Jednorožec
On the right side of the uphill wall, briefly climb the chimney and the sloping wall to… Rock Climbing
3
Lidožrout
Near the South edge, climb the overgrown wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Lidožrout
Climb the edge directly over the overhang and the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Lidožrout
On the right side of the East wall, climb the wall directly to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Lidožrout
To the left of the Old Route, climb the wall directly to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Lidožrout
Climb the uphill edge directly to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Šakalova věž
Up the upper edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Šakalova věž
Climb the left downhill edge to the ring, then the wall and gully to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Šakalova věž
To the left of the uphill edge, climb the wall via a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Strážce pětidomí
Up the SW edge over the ring directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Strážce pětidomí
Completely on the left in the N wall, up the wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce pětidomí
Up the N wall directly into the crack and take the Old route to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Strážce pětidomí
In the center of the N wall, up the smooth wall to the gully and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Big stone
Up the edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Big stone
Up the NE overhanging wall to the edge and left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Big stone
On the right in the upper wall, up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Big stone
On the left at the SW wall to a block and overhang into the crack. Up that to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Big stone
Through the center of the upper wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Strážce pětidomí
Up the NW edge briefly to the ledge, traverse left and up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Big stone
Up the SW wall directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Big stone
At the S edge, up the wall to the summit. (Also up the wall 1.5m to the right.) Rock Climbing
2
Sršeň
From the massif, overhang (jump - 1) to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Sršeň
From the massif, descend to the saddle and take the Old route to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Strážce Vosího vrchu
Take the SW edge to the footbridge and scale the face past the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Sršeň
From the NW, take the chimney to the saddle. Scale the face and ridge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Strážce Vosího vrchu
On the West face, take the chimney and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Sršeň
From the V chimney to the saddle. Old route to the summit. Rock Climbing

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