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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2
Věž Tadeáše Haenkeho
From the block, up the left north edge diagonally right to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Brontosaurus
From the massif, descend to the right, jump to the pinnacle, and as per the Old Route to… Rock Climbing
2
Brontosaurus
Far right in the massif, descend the gully to the ledge, overhang, and as per the Old… Rock Climbing
4+
Věž Tadeáše Haenkeho
At the right north edge, up the wall and gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Cipísek
To the left of the Windy Route, climb directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Brontosaurus
From the massif on the left, descend, overhang, and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Brontosaurus
From the north, up the chimney between the tower and the massif, then diagonally right… Rock Climbing
5
Brontosaurus
In the center of the NE face, up the crack with the overhanging start to the ledge and… Rock Climbing
4+
Cipísek
Up the edge to the left of the Bloody Route, directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Cipísek
Through the center of the E face, climb directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Cipísek
In the narrow S face, up the overhanging crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Cipísek
On the left in the E face, climb directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Cipísek
On the right in the E face, climb directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Cipísek
Up the overhanging NE edge to the balcony and then up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Cipísek
About 1m to the right of the Smooth Route, climb directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Cipísek
On the left in the S face, up the crack with the overhanging start and then up the wall… Rock Climbing
2+
Cipísek
On the left in the N face, climb directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Cipísek
Up the narrow wall at the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Cipísek
Through the center of the N face, climb directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Železná hlava
Up the sloping slab past the ring to the bolt and over the bulge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Cipísek
On the right in the north (N) face to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Cipísek
Up the left north edge, higher up, climb the wall on the right to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Železná hlava
Over the iron-rich slab past the 2nd bolt, diagonally right to the crack at the 3rd bolt… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Železná hlava
To the right of the 'Tokáňský nos' route, by the crack and corner to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Železná hlava
By the wall at the edge under the overhang 1st ring, from the right over the overhang 2nd… Rock Climbing
5+
Železná hlava
Between the route "Jackal's Legacy" and the lower edge of the wall, climb past 2 bolts to… Rock Climbing
5+
Železná hlava
Like the route "Jackal's Legacy," climb the wall slightly diagonally left into the crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Strážce masivu
From the SE, descend the valley edge of the adjacent massif (or by the chimney) to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Verdon
On the right, in the prominent corner, by the wall to the ledge, then left to the ring.… Rock Climbing
4+
Verdon
From the 2nd ring, by the chimney, higher up left by the narrow chimney over the balcony… Rock Climbing

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