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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Vlčí roh
Through the center of the wall, chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Vlčí roh
From the saddle, left crack to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Dr.Ban
From the massif, jump to the top.
4+
Dr.Ban
Rock Climbing
5+
Vlčí roh
Initially overhanging wall (BH) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Vlčí roh
Wide crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Dr.Ban
Through the center of the SE wall, across the overhang to the 1st BH. Left to the second… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Dr.Ban
From the uphill side with a short bridging move or step over from M and step n. v.
4-
Dr.Ban
5+
6
Dr.Ban
To the right of the SW overhanging wall to the notch and further (2 K) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Manželská věž
Up the chimney between the South tower and the North tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Manželská věž
Up the chimney between the South tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Tokáňská jehla
On the left in the uphill face, up the crack to the balcony (ring), and then up the wall… Rock Climbing
6
Tokáňská jehla
On the right uphill edge, passing 2 bolts, higher up diagonally to the right to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Tokáňská jehla
Via the left downhill edge to the ring, then along the edge and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Strážce jehly
Directly to the summit via a chimney-like hold in the NW face. Rock Climbing
4+
Strážce jehly
On the right in the downhill face, up the wall and crack to the belay point, then higher… Rock Climbing
2
Strážce jehly
Directly to the summit via the uphill edge. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Strážce jehly
On the left in the downhill face, up the wall, then up the overhanging crack and the wall… Rock Climbing
5+
Strážce jehly
Via the downhill edge over the overhang, higher up first to the left, then diagonally to… Rock Climbing
4-
Čtyřlístek
Up the crack in the uphill face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Čtyřlístek
Through the crack and chimney directly into the crack, and then up that crack to the… Rock Climbing
5
Čtyřlístek
In the center of the downhill face, up the chimney over the balcony to the 2nd balcony,… Rock Climbing
3
Čtyřlístek
Directly to the summit via the right uphill edge. Rock Climbing
4+
Čtyřlístek
On the left uphill edge, using a chimney-like hold to the left towards the crack, then up… Rock Climbing
3
Čtyřlístek
On the right uphill edge, descend to the right towards the crack, and then up that crack… Rock Climbing
3
Věž Tadeáše Haenkeho
Directly to the summit via the center of the uphill face. Rock Climbing
4+
Věž Tadeáše Haenkeho
Far right in the north face, climb the wall over the ledge (tree) to the summit. Rock Climbing

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