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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Muří noha
Over the overhang into the crack and up. Rock Climbing
2+
Pešek
From Osadni overhang n. v.
4+
Mostová
Left North edge into a hole and up the wall right of the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Osadní
From West to the saddle between the tower and Pesek and right easily n. v.
4+
Mostová
SW edge over a K n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Pešek
From West to the plateau saddle between the tower and Osadni and left over a step n. v.
5
Mostová
In the North face over an overhang into a crack and then up the wall. Rock Climbing
3
Mostová
North face right of the tunnel, higher up a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Mostová
Center of the west face to a hole, crack to its end. Jump left to the edge and up the… Rock Climbing
5+
Mostová
Center of the south face over a K n. v.
4-
Mostová
Up the wall below the rappel. Rock Climbing
4-
Mostová
Crack in the right part of the wall. Rock Climbing
4-
Mostová
Crack starting from the SE edge. Rock Climbing
3
Mostová
From the East, via a corner and crack. Rock Climbing
4-
Dětský tábor
On the right in the East face into a gully and up it n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Dětský tábor
Right of route "Milanovo UFO" up the wall on small ledges n. v. Rock Climbing
6-
Dětský tábor
Along the SE edge over the overhang n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Dětský tábor
Left in the south face along a crack n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Pecen
Along the left edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Pecen
Through the center of the wall along a crack. Rock Climbing
3
Pecen
Left part of the north face. Rock Climbing
2+
Dětský tábor
Along the SW edge n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Dětský tábor
Through the center of the south face n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Dětský tábor
On the left in the East face, via a crack n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Dětský tábor
Center of the East face (clock) n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Pecen
Through the center of the wall along a crack Rock Climbing
2+
Pecen
Along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Pecen
Left E edge. Rock Climbing
2+
Pecen
Through the center of the south face along a crack Rock Climbing
2
Pecen
Right E edge Rock Climbing

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