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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Hříbek na hranici
Through the crack in the upper (SW) wall under the summit head and through the… Rock Climbing
5+
Hříbek na hranici
Along the crack running through the valley (S) wall in the fall line of the summit to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Hříbek na hranici
Along the SE wall along the crack under the overhang to the ring and from the right to… Rock Climbing
4+
Hříbek na hranici
From the tunnel in the upper (SW) wall through the crack diagonally to the left to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Boubín
Through the center of the S (valley) wall through the hand crack over K n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Hříbek na hranici
Along the edge under the overhang, traverse to the left and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Hříbek na hranici
Along the edge under the overhang, traverse to the left and to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Uprchlík
Along the left valley edge to the ring. Along the edge to the clock. Diagonally across… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4
Uprchlík
Through the chimney into the saddle between the Mushroom. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Hříbek na hranici
From the upper side to the left onto the NW foreland. Through the wall and crack onto the… Rock Climbing
4+
Hříbek na hranici
Briefly upwards along the right valley edge, transition to the right into the crack to K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Uprchlík
Through the center of the valley wall to the ring. Through the crack and wall to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Ptačí věž
From the slope right to the ledge, above it a large 'clock', up the wall under the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ptačí věž
In the left part of the valley wall, a short notch to the shelf. Up the overhanging wall… Rock Climbing
4
Uprchlík
From the east to the right into the overhanging crack and up it. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Ptačí věž
Up the valley overhanging wall over a bolt to a shelf. Up the pillar wall over the second… Rock Climbing
6
Uprchlík
Left part of the wall to the 1st bolt. Broken crack to the 2nd bolt. Then up the wall and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Uprchlík
From the large platform from the east, through the recess and up the wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Ptačí věž
To the left of route b) wall diagonally left to a bolt. Up the wall to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Ptačí věž
Crack to the left of the old route to the ledge, traverse left to the west edge and to… Rock Climbing
4-
Muří noha
From the south, over the overhang into a short crack and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Muří noha
On the right in the south face, a massive overhang into a ledge. Then overhang into a… Rock Climbing
5+
Ptačí věž
Right part of the valley (south) wall into the hole, traverse left and middle of the wall. Rock Climbing
4+
Muří noha
Along the edge under the small crack, upwards, traverse left above the valley overhang… Rock Climbing
3
Ptačí věž
Along the articulated edge in the right part of the upland wall. Rock Climbing
4-
Růžena
Through the middle of the wall according to the notch. Rock Climbing
4+
Muří noha
To the right of the Z crack, build up to the ledge and then up the wall along the edge. Rock Climbing
2+
Muří noha
From the upland side, over the overhang to the platform and then up. Rock Climbing
4-
Muří noha
Over the overhang into the crack and higher along the edge. Rock Climbing
4-
Růžena
In the left part of the wall (from Muřínohy) along the edge. Rock Climbing

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