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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Hranol - Backstein
Up the middle of the upland face to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Věž nad strží
Up the chimney between the tower and the buttress to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Věž nad strží
Left of the 'From Beyond' route, under the large overhang. Up the overhanging crack to… Rock Climbing
6-
Věž nad strží
Up the face right of the 'Chimney Route' to the crack and through it to the hole. Over… Rock Climbing
6-
Věž nad strží
In the left part of the E wall of the appendage, diagonally through the wall to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Věž nad strží
Up the narrow west face past the ring to the top of the buttress. Rock Climbing
4+
Věž nad strží
In the deep corner from the SE, using a hand-foot traverse and a crack to the saddle… Rock Climbing
6
Věž nad strží
From the gully between the massif, tower and appendage, via a chimney using stemming… Rock Climbing
3
Věž nad strží
From the SW face to the top of the buttress. By overhang or jump to the top of the tower… Rock Climbing
4-
Věž nad strží
From the gully between the massif and the tower, via a narrowing chimney to the saddle.… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Věž nad strží
In the gully to the left of Expo 92, through the wall past 3 pitons to the ring of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
9/9+
Věž nad strží
In the left part of the north wall, via 5 bolts to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Věž nad strží
Center of the NE wall over 3 rings and to the left along a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
9/9+
Věž nad strží
From the 1st bolt of the Krvavá lázeň route, rightwards using a hand-foot traverse (2nd… Rock Climbing
6-
Věž nad strží
Through the wall near the NE edge diagonally to the right towards the ring. To the right,… Rock Climbing
4+
Věž nad strží
From the gully between the pillar and the tower in the left part of the E wall, using… Rock Climbing
5+
Věž nad strží
Center of the E wall to the 'clocks', then via a crack and fissure in the overgrown wall… Rock Climbing
6-
Věž nad strží
SE edge to the 1st ring. Through the wall and higher to the left towards the 2nd ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Věž nad strží
Via a fine crack past the ring into the crack and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Věž nad strží
Near the S edge (with considerable building) above the ring into the crack and along it… Rock Climbing
3
Koryto
NE edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Koryto
Overhanging crack in the uphill wall, further up the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5+
Věž nad strží
To the left of the Chimney Route via an overhanging crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Věž nad strží
Traverse from the Chimney Route to the left into the crack and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Koryto
Briefly onto a large platform and to the right along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Věž nad strží
Chimney through the center of the NW wall. Rock Climbing
4-
Koryto
Center of the S wall by a crack (ring). Through the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Granule
On the right in the south face over K n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Koryto
Center of the wall n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Granule
The right downhill (W) edge n. v. Rock Climbing

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