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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Skála bělské jeskyně
From the 2nd belay, up the crack. Rock Climbing
3
Skála bělské jeskyně
The right part of the plateau wall upwards. Rock Climbing
3
Skála bělské jeskyně
By the corner and the crack to the right upwards. Rock Climbing
4+
Skála bělské jeskyně
To the right of the wide chimney in the north face to a step (hourglass). Crack past… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Skála bělské jeskyně
In the middle of the north face, right onto the ledge to the 1st belay. Wall to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Skála bělské jeskyně
To the left of the NW edge, climb the wall past the 3rd belay and to the left into the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Skála bělské jeskyně
From the gully between the tower and Ježk. From the sloping slope to the right to 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Ježek
On the left in the S wall rib to the left into the crack. Through the crack to the ledge… Rock Climbing
3
Ježek
From S chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Skála bělské jeskyně
In the valley wall, from the chimney, climb the wall diagonally left to 1st belay. Wall… Rock Climbing
3
Skála bělské jeskyně
From the pillar in the space between the towers, a wide crack higher up into a recess. Rock Climbing
2+
Ježek
Descent from the massif and overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Ježek
In the right part of the S wall chimney (hourglass) to the ring. Up the wall along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Ježek
Through the center of the NE wall over the holes to the 1st ring. To the right rib to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Ježek
From S chimney, traverse behind the edge to the ring and through the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Ježek
On the right in the S wall chimney, higher up corner and crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Hranol - Backstein
In the right part of the S wall, through the crack to the ring. Over two holes to the… Rock Climbing
6
Hranol - Backstein
Start to the right of St. c. behind the edge. Up the wall over 2 rings with the help of a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hranol - Backstein
Traverse the S wall along the ledge to the right above the hole to the ring. Upwards to… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Hranol - Backstein
In the valley wall along the left edge straight over the 2nd bolt into the Červená… Rock Climbing
6-
Hranol - Backstein
From the 1st ring of the Broučci route diagonally right up the wall to the rib and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Hranol - Backstein
To the left of the Červená ještěrka route, up the wall over 3 rings and then diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
8/8+
Hranol - Backstein
Through the center of the valley wall over 3 rings and then slightly from the right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Hranol - Backstein
In the left part of the upland face to the horizontal hole, traverse left behind the edge… Rock Climbing
5+
Hranol - Backstein
To the left of the S crack, a short crack to the hourglass. Left through the crack to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Hranol - Backstein
In the right part of the S wall, upwards into the overhanging crack and through it to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Hranol - Backstein
To the left of the Fantom route, chimney and crack to the 1st ring. Left along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Hranol - Backstein
Through the center of the S wall (by positioning) into the oblique crack and through it… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Hranol - Backstein
Along the W edge over 3 rings under the large overhang to the 4th ring. Straight up the… Rock Climbing
4+
Hranol - Backstein
Up the right part of the upland face to the top. Rock Climbing

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