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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Rodinná věž
6
Hrot
To the left of the U sta rohatých route to a small step and face to the 1st ring. Edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Hrot
From the gully between Pustý zámek and Hrot, along the ledge to the right, over the… Rock Climbing
6-
Hrot
Through the center of the valley face into the overhanging crack, up to the ledge into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Rodinná věž
Through the chimney between the pinnacle and the tower, then up the crack and the slab to… Rock Climbing
3
Rodinná věž
5
Rodinná věž
Southwest edge, past the ring, to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Rodinná věž
To the left of the corner in the south face, past the iron crustations to the ring. Face… Rock Climbing
4+
Rodinná věž
Like the King of Time route, and from the iron crustation, via a sloping crack to the… Rock Climbing
5
Rodinná věž
Through the center of the south face into the crack and to its end, to the ring. Face to… Rock Climbing
3
Rodinná věž
Through the chimney in the left part of the south face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Rodinná věž
On the southwest edge, a short crack to the balcony and a hand crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Rodinná věž
Right of the chimney, up the overhanging wall and a small crack.
3
Rodinná věž
3
Rodinná věž
In the North wall, up the crack near the edge to the top Rock Climbing
6-
Rodinná věž
Right in the SE wall, up the crack into a hole and to the ring. Up the wall to the ledge … Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Rodinná věž
Up the center of the upper East wall, higher up through a recess and left to the top Rock Climbing
3
Rodinná věž
In the left part of the upper wall, up the crack and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Rodinná věž
Right in the SE wall, up the corner and recess to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Rodinná věž
Up the right part of the North wall over a ring to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Rodinná věž
From the area near Pustý zámek (Deserted Castle) up the chimney to the top Rock Climbing
5
Jelení věž
From the gully between the massif and the tower E wall to the ring. From it wall, into… Rock Climbing
5
Jelení věž
From the platform in the left part of the NE wall, crack to the block and further crack… Rock Climbing
?
Jelení věž
From the left part of the massif, descend to the ledge. Jump to the Deer Tower. Rock Climbing
7+
Jelení věž
Crack in the middle of the valley wall to the ring in the hole. Overhanging wall over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Jelení věž
From the foreground on the valley (N) side left into the crack, up to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6+/7-
Jelení věž
Center of the valley wall left of the route Jů and Hele. Wall and crack into the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Jelení věž
From the start of the SW route, traverse in the ledge to the left, wall directly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Jelení věž
From the foreground on the valley (N) side crack diagonally right under the overhang.… Rock Climbing
6-
Jelení věž
From the 2nd ring of the route, crack directly n. v. Rock Climbing

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