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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Hrobka
Up the south edge past K to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Hrobka
To the right of the northeast corner, up the overhanging wall along the edge past K to… Rock Climbing
5
Hrobka
Start via "Eastern Route". Traverse to the right to K. Up the wall to the grassy ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Hrobka
Via the chimney from the north between the peaks and the west face to the east peak. Rock Climbing
4-
Hrobka
To the left of the "Normal Route" up the northeast face of the east peak. Rock Climbing
2+
Hrobka
South edge of the east tower. Rock Climbing
4-
Věž Zdenky
On the left in the SW wall between the tower and the foreland, a chimney to a balcony.… Rock Climbing
3
Věž Zdenky
Via the yellow corner to the balcony. Crack to the right onto the large foreland and edge… Rock Climbing
3
Věž Zdenky
Between the massif and the tower to the left onto the W edge, up steps to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Věž Zdenky
Up the corner and wall under the abseil point to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Věž Zdenky
From the grassy area in the right part of the wall and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Věž Zdenky
In the downhill wall, up the corner to the bolt. Over the overhang to the ledge in the… Rock Climbing
2+
Věž Zdenky
From the grassy area in the S wall, right behind the edge to a small balcony and to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Věž Zdenky
Through the center of the NE wall over the bolt to the ledge. Up the wall directly to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Věž Zdenky
From the gully between the massif and the tower to a large grassy area in the S wall.… Rock Climbing
5+
Věž Zdenky
Start in the E wall from piled boulders. Up the wall right to the edge under the overhang… Rock Climbing
6
Věž Zdenky
In the left part of the downhill wall, from the left along the edge to the bolt. Right to… Rock Climbing
6-
Věž Zdenky
Up the downhill corner under the overhang. Directly over the overhang and along the edge… Rock Climbing
5+
Věž Zdenky
In the left part of the NE wall, along the edge right to the bolt. Up a short crack to… Rock Climbing
4+
Věž Zdenky
Start up the crack leading to the crevice. Traverse left and up onto the blocks below the… Rock Climbing
3
Běliningrad
Right in the SW wall up the chimney, higher along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Běliningrad
Right in the SW wall to a step to the bolt. Up the overhanging wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Věž Zdenky
From the start of the downhill corner, right along the edge to the bolt, up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Běliningrad
Through the center of the SW wall to a small pillar. Chimneying over the overhang into a… Rock Climbing
5
Běliningrad
Left of the route 'Across the Column', up the overhanging crack to a lower pillar and… Rock Climbing
4-
Běliningrad
Up the crack to the lower pillar, up the chimney to the balcony and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Běliningrad
At the right downhill edge, passing 2 bolts to the top of the adjacent pillar. Up the… Rock Climbing
5+
Běliningrad
Briefly along the left downhill edge, diagonally right up to the bolt and up the wall to… Rock Climbing
5+
Běliningrad
Wide crack in the right part of the NE wall, passing the bolt to a pillar. Left along the… Rock Climbing
4+
Běliningrad
Up the wall and crack from NE to the small pillar to the summit. Rock Climbing

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