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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Běliningrad
Left in the SW wall, up the chimney and crack to the adjacent pillar. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Běliningrad
Left of the right downhill edge, over the bolt directly up the wall to the summit.
5
Běliningrad
Deep corner in the NE wall and then over overhangs to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Běliningrad
Rock Climbing
4+
Běliningrad
Left crack in the northeast wall all the way to the saddle. Right along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
6
Běliningrad
Right crack in the left part of the northeast wall under the large overhang. Over the… Rock Climbing
2
Rozhledna
In the uphill wall, over steps and chimney to the top.
2
Rozhledna
In the uphill wall, go left along the wall to the top.
4+
Rozhledna
From the south side, go left to the edge and follow it to the ring. Edge to the ledge and… Rock Climbing
6-
Rozhledna
Start like the Center Route. From the end of the small pillar, go left into the hole and… Rock Climbing
5+
Rozhledna
Through the center of the wall with a pillar, later with cracks to a large platform.… Rock Climbing
6-
Rozhledna
In the right part of the wall, a wide crack and higher over the ledge, wall to the ring.… Rock Climbing
5
Rozhledna
From the south side, use the crack near the edge to the large ledge. Edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Rozhledna
On the right in the south wall, use the crack to the ledge. Continue along the edge to… Rock Climbing
3
Rozhledna
South wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Rozhledna
In the left part of the face, through the chimney that narrows into a crack. Overhang to… Rock Climbing
6
Rozhledna
Through the center of the downhill wall, directly over the overhang and 3 rings into the… Rock Climbing
6
Rozhledna
Downhill edge over 2 rings to a large balcony. Like Jarda's route to the top Rock Climbing
6-
Rozhledna
Right crack to the 1st ring of the Easter crack. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Rozhledna
In the right part of the downhill wall, use the left crack to the ring. Long crack to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Rozhledna
To the left of the Cave Route, face over two rings and left through cracks past the 3rd… Rock Climbing
6
Rozhledna
To the right of the Cave Route, over the holes to the right to the ring. To the chimney… Rock Climbing
6-
Rozhledna
Face to the left of the Easter Crack to the 1st ring. Overhanging along the appendage to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Hrot
From the valley between the towers, face along the edge (hourglass) to the hole … Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Terasa pod rozhlednou
Through the center of the valley face, hand crack to the ring. Briefly to the ledge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Rozhledna
To the right of the northwest edge to the summit.
5+
Hrot
From the right valley edge along the ledge to the left and face to the 1st ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Hrot
On the right in the valley face, through the chimney and higher up, via the crack to the… Rock Climbing
2
Rodinná věž
4-
Rodinná věž
To the right of the Old Route, overhanging edge to the summit.

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