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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Jelení věž
Crack in the western edge to the ring, over the massive overhang crack to the 2nd ring… Rock Climbing
5+
Jelení věž
In the left part of the SW face, gully, crack and again gully n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Skála Františka Záběhlíka
In the south face, left chimney n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
1
Skála Františka Záběhlíka
In the south face, right chimney n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Jelení věž
South edge to the ledge, climb into the gully and to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Jelení věž
Chimney between the massif and the tower, later wall to the left n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Skála Františka Záběhlíka
From the Left Chimney to the edge and across the steps n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Skála Františka Záběhlíka
In the left part of the south face, via 2K. n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Jelení věž
In the right part of the SW face, short chimney to the 1st ring. Wall to the right of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Skála Františka Záběhlíka
Chimney between the Skála bělské jeskyně on the pillar and the corner n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Skála Františka Záběhlíka
To the left of the Wide Crack, chimney and corner n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Skála Františka Záběhlíka
From the entrance to Bělská jeskyně via oblique chimney n. v.
5
Skála Františka Záběhlíka
In the right part of the north face, up the crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Skála Františka Záběhlíka
Through the passage between Jelení tower into the space and the left part of the wall up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Skála Františka Záběhlíka
In the right part of the south face, chimney and overhang n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Skála Františka Záběhlíka
Left crack in the north face n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Skála bělské jeskyně
To the right of the BĞlský chimney, climb the wall to a ledge. Higher up, at the edge, up… Rock Climbing
4
Skála Františka Záběhlíka
Up the chimney approx. to Jelení tower a few meters and to the left up the crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Skála Františka Záběhlíka
Up the chimney approx. to Jelení tower a few meters and the crack past 2 belays upwards. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Skála bělské jeskyně
From the platform above the entrance to the BĞlská cave, step over into the gully and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Skála bělské jeskyně
From the entrance to the BĞlská cave, up the chimney. Rock Climbing
4+
Skála bělské jeskyně
From the wedged boulder in the space between the towers, upwards to the belay. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Skála bělské jeskyně
From the wedged boulder, climb the wall to the ledge and to the left up the recess. Rock Climbing
4+
Skála bělské jeskyně
To the right of the southwest chimney, right under the overhang and up it. Rock Climbing
4+
Skála bělské jeskyně
To the left of the chimney from the large platform, from the crack and up it. Rock Climbing
4+
Skála bělské jeskyně
In the left part of the southwest face, climb the wall and the fissure to a large ledge.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Skála bělské jeskyně
Up the wide chimney. Rock Climbing
4+
Skála bělské jeskyně
From the slope on the right in the south face, left under the overhang and up it. Rock Climbing
4-
Skála bělské jeskyně
On the right in the south face, over the ledge to the short crack and up it. Rock Climbing
2+
Skála bělské jeskyně
In the left part of the plateau wall, up the crack. Rock Climbing

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