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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Granule
On the right in the south face over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Danger
4-
Koryto
On the right, in the downhill wall, from the small cave, up the corner near the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2
Koryto
From the platform, a short crack n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Koryto
On the right, in the S wall, by the edge to the ledge, from it to the right into the… Rock Climbing
3
Stěna svobody
From the saddle between Granule along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Stěna svobody
On the left in the east face from the ledge through the wall and overhang n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Granule
The right uphill edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Granule
From SE briefly through the crack and higher up along the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Granule
The left uphill edge n. v. Rock Climbing
?
Stěna svobody
By jumping from the Granule ledge to the ledge, freely n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Stěna svobody
Crack and chimneys n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Stěna svobody
Building to the crack and it n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Stěna svobody
From S with a flared chimney between the pillar n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Stěna svobody
Via Hodina duše and directly through the crack n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Stěna svobody
On the right in the east face, briefly through the crack and right to the K. Crack n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2
Stěna svobody
From the saddle between Granule diagonally left n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Sloup
From S to the chimney, up it to the crack at the right edge and to the summit. Rock Climbing
8
Sloup
Via Jája to K. and diagonally right to the 2nd K and edge and wall n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Sloup
Traverse right and up the north face to the ring. Up left into the wall and along the… Rock Climbing
4+
Stěna svobody
On the right in the east face, right behind the edge into the depression and crack n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Sloup
A short uphill wall. Rock Climbing
5+
Sloup
In the right part of the downhill wall, chimney to the NW edge, traverse left to the… Rock Climbing
6
Sloup
Through the crack in the middle of the NW wall past the ring to the crack. Higher up to… Rock Climbing
8
Sloup
Via Jája to above the ring and right up the wall over 2K and overhang n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Sloup
Drop into the south face, traverse left and to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Hašlerka
In the left part of the wall straight over the big clock under the overhang. Over the… Rock Climbing
5
Hašlerka
Along the right valley edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Hašlerka
In the right part of the valley wall, chimneying and over the overhang K, straight… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Hašlerka
In the middle of the valley wall chimneying and over the overhang to the ring. Over it… Rock Climbing
4-
Hašlerka
Climb the wall into the crack and onto the ledge. Left wall, n. v. Rock Climbing

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