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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Kohoutí věž
From the east, through a chimney between the tower and the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Lísková věž
From the west massif, a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Lísková věž
By the northwest edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Lísková věž
From the west, through a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Giselina skála
By the left upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Giselina skála
Up the right upper edge, diagonally left through the wall to the balcony and to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Borový kámen
Like the Old Route to the saddle, descend left down past the large clock into the chimney… Rock Climbing
5
Borový kámen
In the west wall, a corner and chimney directly into the chimney of the Western Route. Up… Rock Climbing
3
Computer
Like the "Windows" route, traverse left under the couloir and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Borový kámen
From the west to the saddle, building up in the plateau wall and diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Borový kámen
By the upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Borový kámen
From the west to the saddle, to the right and up a gully with an overhanging start to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce klenotnice
In the lower wall, a gully with an overhanging start to the balcony and up the Old Route… Rock Climbing
6-
Svíčka
Lower wall under the overhang to the 1st bolt and right a gully past the 2nd bolt to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Hradní jehla
From the east, up a plateau chimney over a wedged block and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Hradní jehla
From the northwest in the middle of the plateau wall, up a chimney, higher up a step-over… Rock Climbing
5
Hradní jehla
In the middle of the lower wall, through the hole directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Hradní jehla
From the northwest, up a chimney and couloir to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Hradní jehla
To the right of the southwest edge, up a chimney and edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Hradní jehla
From the upper end of the steps, traverse a chimney, slightly down and up a short chimney… Rock Climbing
4+
Svíčka
On the left in the plateau (NE) wall to a widening gully and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Říjnová (Říjná) jehla
From the northwest, a gully and chimney between the massif and the tower, higher up via… Rock Climbing
4+
Říjnová (Říjná) jehla
Southeast gully to the saddle and chimney. Rock Climbing
3
Říjnová (Říjná) jehla
From the massif down a chimney, left around the small tower, down and over a waterfall to… Rock Climbing
4-
Říjnová (Říjná) jehla
From the east to the saddle and onto the boulder near the plateau wall. Wall and edge. Rock Climbing
2+
Svíčka
From the plateau side to the right, and a short gully and couloir to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Markétina věž (Kopretinová věž)
Left uphill edge. Rock Climbing
4-
Lahvička
Like the Old Route to the E edge and right to the higher saddle, At the right uphill edge… Rock Climbing
3
Markétina věž (Kopretinová věž)
From the saddle to the right over slabs and chimney. Rock Climbing
2
Markétina věž (Kopretinová věž)
From the east to the saddle, left wall, gully and chimney. Rock Climbing

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