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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Slunovratový kámen (Trojče)
From the NE, a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Slunovratový kámen (Trojče)
From the NW, a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Slunovratový kámen (Trojče)
From the edge, over 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Slunovratový kámen (Trojče)
Take the Old Route to the balcony and climb the wall diagonally left to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Slunovratový kámen (Trojče)
On the right in the S face, stemming and using a groove to the balcony. Edge to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Slunovratový kámen (Trojče)
In the Southeast Face, climb a chimney to the balcony and a gully to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Slunovratový kámen (Trojče)
On the left in the SW face, a corner crack and chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Stěna nad ohništěm
m to the left of the Smoke Route, climb an overhanging rib and a crack (slings) to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Stěna nad ohništěm
On the right side of the valley wall, follow the edge to a large hole halfway up the wall… Rock Climbing
4+
Pavučinový hrad
On the left side of the South Face, follow a corner crack over a bolt and a bolt to the… Rock Climbing
5
Pavučinový hrad
On the left side of the valley wall, follow the edge to a wide, slanting crack. Follow… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Stěna nad ohništěm
Climb the overhanging wall directly to the 2nd bolt and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Velký Plačtivý kámen
1.5m to the right of the East Route, climb the wall past a bolt to the edge and follow… Rock Climbing
4-
Velký Plačtivý kámen
From the balcony on the East Face, briefly follow a widening crack and climb the wall… Rock Climbing
6-
Velký Plačtivý kámen
From the balcony on the East Face, traverse completely to the right to a bolt and climb… Rock Climbing
5
Velký Plačtivý kámen
Follow the corner of the Valley Route, higher up over the overhang to the balcony below… Rock Climbing
2+
Velký Plačtivý kámen
From the Southeast Face, climb the wall to the balcony and take the Upper Variation of… Rock Climbing
5
Velký Plačtivý kámen
From the balcony on the East Face, follow a crack diagonally right to a bolt on the South… Rock Climbing
4+
Velký Plačtivý kámen
Halfway up the Old Route, take a gully-like chimney to the balcony on the left. On the… Rock Climbing
5+
Velký Plačtivý kámen
On the right side of the valley wall, briefly follow a corner and then climb the wall… Rock Climbing
5+
Velký Plačtivý kámen
Follow the right edge of the Valley Wall (slings) to a bolt, and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Velký Plačtivý kámen
In the center of the Valley Wall, follow a corner for about 8m, then climb the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Velký Plačtivý kámen
About 2m to the right of the Valley Route, take a curved crack and go over the overhang… Rock Climbing
5
Velký Plačtivý kámen
From the balcony on the East Face, go completely to the right, descend, and traverse… Rock Climbing
6-
Velký Plačtivý kámen
Go up the Valley Route for about 5m, then diagonally right over the overhang and a crack… Rock Climbing
5
Velký Plačtivý kámen
In the center of the West Face, take a crack to a small balcony and traverse left to the… Rock Climbing
3
Velký Plačtivý kámen
About 3.5m to the right of the Southeast Face, to the left of the overhang, climb the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Malý Plačtivý kámen
To the left of the Eastern crack, through the center of the wall over the ring to the… Rock Climbing
2
Velký Plačtivý kámen
In the upland wall, a ramp diagonally left and wall to the balcony (also right with a… Rock Climbing
4-
Malý Plačtivý kámen
NE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing

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