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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Martinova věž
Up the wall along the right valley edge over the ring and clock to the edge. Then over… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Martinova věž
On the left in the valley wall, crack and wall to the balcony and via the valley route to… Rock Climbing
5
Martinova věž
On the left in the northern wall, up the wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Martinova věž
In the northern wall, chimney and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Martinova věž
In the center of the west wall, via an overhanging rib to a pine tree and left to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Martinova věž
In the west wall diagonally left to the edge (ring), left behind the edge and through the… Rock Climbing
5
Strážce Šternberka (Lesní duch)
Southwest edge to the balcony and directly wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Strážce Šternberka (Lesní duch)
Through the notch in the downhill wall to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Velká medvědice
From the massif, jump to the pedestal and Old Route to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Vlčí doupě
From the East, at the right uphill edge, through the chimney briefly upwards and… Rock Climbing
2+
Strážce Šternberka (Lesní duch)
Right in the uphill wall to the boulder and left through the crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Vlčí doupě
Right uphill edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce Šternberka (Lesní duch)
Left of the Old Route, corner to the boulder and right wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Vlčí doupě
From East or West through the chimney to the uphill wall, 2m left and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Dietrichův kámen
Center of the west wall (right of the chimney) directly to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Dietrichův kámen
Right in the downhill wall through the recess to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Velká medvědice
From the uphill side through the chimney and left to the pedestal. To the summit head via… Rock Climbing
5
Dietrichův kámen
Right of the route 'Mystery of the Night' to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Velká medvědice
Old route to the pedestal and to the summit head via the South edge. Rock Climbing
3
Velká medvědice
Left of the chimney of the Old Route, edge to the pedestal and Old Route to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Tlustá paní
Along the East edge directly to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Tlustá paní
Right of the East edge (North) wall to the ledge and gully to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Tlustá paní
Corner on the right in the South wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Dietrichův kámen
North edge to a small platform and to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Dietrichův kámen
East wall to the top (starting with a ladder in the middle of the East wall). Rock Climbing
4-
Dietrichův kámen
Along the East edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Velký muž
Southeast edge (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Velký muž
Corner in the south wall to the right onto the balcony. Wall to the ring and to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Velký muž
Between the southeast edge and route e) to the ring. Diagonally left upwards to the edge.… Rock Climbing
6-
Velký muž
Left part of the south wall and over the overhang to the ring. Up to the ledge and left… Rock Climbing

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