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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Obří hlava
Up the uphill wall around the ring to the Doznívání ring. Via the northeast route to the… Rock Climbing
3
Kráva
On the right in the uphill wall, up the wall to the balcony and along the edge to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Obří hlava
To the left of the Copánek route, up the overhanging crack and edge to the ring. Directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Obří hlava
To the right of the route "Copánek", directly up the overhanging wall, 1st bolt to 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Obří hlava
In the western wall, from the boulder, take the crack on the left to the ring. From the… Rock Climbing
5+
Obří hlava
In the middle of the uphill wall, from the boulder (ring) to the right into the fissure.… Rock Climbing
4-
Obří hlava
A long traverse to the left uphill edge. Rock Climbing
4-
Obří hlava
From the right uphill edge, a long traverse to the right into the downhill wall (ring).… Rock Climbing
4+
Obří hlava
From the uphill side, take a crack to the platform and then go left up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
3
Brtnický kostel
From the N from the adjacent massif, traverse left along the ledge, drop behind the NE… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Obří hlava
Through the center of the downhill south overhanging wall to the crack. Through the crack… Rock Climbing
5
Obří hlava
To the right of the downhill edge, take the rib to the ledge. To the right through the… Rock Climbing
5+
Brtnický kostel
Up the middle of the downhill pillar, bh over the hole to the large balcony and then… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Brtnický kostel
6 m to the left of the downhill edge in the W face, up the small chimney and the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Brtnický kostel
To the left of the Nákup route, up the wall to the bolt and diagonally left to the large… Rock Climbing
6-
Brtnický kostel
At the blunt downhill edge, up the wall and crack to the large balcony. Up the wall to… Rock Climbing
6-
Brtnický kostel
4 m to the left of the downhill edge, up the wall and crack to the large balcony. Follow… Rock Climbing
2+
Brtnický kostel
By the Old Route to the ledge, then further left along it and diagonally right up the… Rock Climbing
5+
Rybářská bašta
In the W face, up the wall over a ring into the chimney and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Brtnický kostel
Far right in the E face under the overhang to the ledge, then left and diagonally left up… Rock Climbing
4-
Rybářská bašta
On the right in the uphill face, up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Drahokam
Up the northwest face (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Drahokam
Down from the massif, step across and traverse left across the wall. Up left to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Rybářská bašta
From the start of the Old Route, up the chimney inside the tower and through a narrow… Rock Climbing
3
Rybářská bašta
On the right in the W face, up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Rybářská bašta
In the uphill (S) face, up the chimney with an overhanging start to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Rybářská bašta
Up the uphill edge to the balcony, traverse right into the chimney and up it to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Rybářská bašta
Up the uphill edge over the balcony to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Drahokam
Up the chimney between the tower and the massif. Up the construction and the uphill wall.… Rock Climbing
6-
Drahokam
Up the western edge over two rings to the balcony. Left to the ring of the Nephrite Route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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